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Olympic Range (WA) > Mount Deception > Climber's Log|
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| Dundeel | Successful Deception  Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009 | |
| We climbed with a party of six, which was a bit much for the loose rock, but we managed. Camped at Royal Lake. It was still snow to the top of the main talus slope coming up from the basin. We then stayed to the right before angling left under the big block in the saddle. Lots of loose rock and ugly places to fall to. Scrambled down more loose rock to the top edge of the glacier. One member of the group successfully climbed to Gilhooley Saddle directly. The rest of us took the loop around Gilhooley Tower via the top edge of the glacier. We saw no serious crevasse activity and the loop route was an easy walk. Descending from Deception-Martin Saddle into Royal Basin was very slow and sketchy due to the loose rock. We left a register in a double ziploc. Someone might bring a better container. | |
| Posted Jul 5, 2009 1:57 pm | ||
| Mountainjeff | Tragedy in the SE Gully Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2008 | |
| Climbed the NE gully to the summit. Snow conditions were horrible. This route is closer to a class 4 than a class 3. Summited at about 10:00 AM. descended by the SE Gully route intending to camp in Deception Basin. My partner fell 500 ft down the gully and sustained major head injuries. I descended alone and then hiked out to Royal Basin. In Upper Royal Basin I encountered a skilled group of climbers who agreed to aid in the rescue and not far below I encountered Ranger Bridget. Bridget radioed for a helicopter and the rescue that followed was epic. Many of you may have seen it on the news and it took to long to describe here. My friend is still in a coma, but should pull through. NOTE: The SE Gully route is, in my opinion, terribly underrated. It is not a class 3. It consists of 50 degree snow intermixed with vertical waterfalls pitches and motes. There is nowhere to place protection and the rock is very rotten. I feel it is closer to a high 4 or a low grade 5. | |
| Posted Jul 25, 2008 12:38 am | ||
| johngo | NE gully Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2008 | |
| Ranger Bridgitt suggests not climbing this peak afer July 1, and I fully agree. The ascent was cake - 2 hours from camp to summit, straight up the snow finger in the NE gully, about 45 -50 degrees for 400 vertical feet. No pro, rope or harnesses used. We opted for the standard descent, which involved the scariest "class 3" (haha, yeah right) downclimbing I have ever done. Loads of scree and dirt on top of loose rock, with death fall potential at most every step from the saddle above Deception glacier to about 400 feet down towards upper Royal Basin. This is a serious route, not for beginners, and is by no means a walk up scramble peak. It took us 3.5 hours from summit to camp! Try this in early season with snow if at all possible, I'd suggest early June. We combined this climb with a Mt. Mystery ascent on the previous day, a nice double for a 3 day weekend. Camp in Upper Royal Basin, 1 mile past Royal Lake, for way better views and less people. | ||
| Posted Jul 18, 2008 11:42 am | ||
| gimpilator | Loose Crappy Rock in NE Gully Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007 | |
| Loose rock is right. This late in the season, the snow was mostly melted out. Ranger Bridget and I decided to turn around at 7000 feet when we realized that a small slip on the loose slope could be fatal. We had to use a runner literally tying ourselves together and taking turns holding on to get down. | |
| Posted Aug 28, 2007 11:45 pm | ||
| leftfield | Route Climbed - Royal Basin then straight up Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2007 | |
| We took the gully to the right of the Northeast gully. Steep snow ! First successful Mazama ascent of Deception in 26 years. Why anyone would attempt this when there's no snow I can't even imagine. | |
| Posted Jun 20, 2007 12:19 am | ||
| NavySeabee | Gilhooley Saddle in 1995 | |
| From Royal Basin we made the standard approach up the loose scree and rock. Once we completed that slog (ugh!!), it was a real enjoyable climb to the summit. Got a little hairy on top of Deception Glacier as I decided to climb a near vertical ice chute. The Olympics are majestic mountains to say the least! | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2006 11:35 pm | ||
| etsnyd | Route Climbed: Royal Basin/Standard Route Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1986 | |
| What a pile of loose junk! Beautiful mountain, great views, but frustrating to climb with all of the loose rock. Wear a helmet for sure! | |
| Posted Feb 8, 2006 10:40 pm | ||
| Andy Dewey | Route Climbed: Royal Basin/Standard Route Date Climbed: August 2000 | |
| Camped in Royal Basin and climbed the steep snowfield without ice axes :0 not a good idea! Lots of termites on the summit. Awesome view though! | |
| Posted Feb 3, 2005 2:51 pm | ||
| don frazier | Route Climbed: Northeast gully Date Climbed: July 27, 2002 | |
| Beautiful sunny day. Snow was taken all the way to the summit except one small 10 ft rock step (class 4) which broke up the snow gully around 500 ft from the ridge. Large flies were swarming the summit but mostly left me alone. The Olympics were an island in a sea of clouds and the Cascades were socked in except Baker, Glacier and Rainier. 4 hours to summit from trailhead. | ||
| Posted Aug 4, 2002 9:25 am | ||
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