| Welcome to SP! - Sign-In | Register | ||
| | |
| MbPost.com -- It's SP for Mountain Biking! | ||
John Muir Wilderness > Feather Peak > Climber's Log|
|
|
| granjero | Feather Couloir  Date Climbed: May 15, 2005 | |
| Highly enjoyable climb, especially topping out with mind boggling views. Ski descent was delightful. | |
| Posted Sep 8, 2009 6:21 pm | ||
| seano | From Royce Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009 | |
| Awful descent off Royce, but the righthand chute/ridge was nice class 3. No register. Returned to Pine Creek via Royce-Feather saddle, and needed my axe. Just under 10h car-to-car for Merriam-Royce-Feather from Pine Creek. | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2009 9:27 am | ||
| Andreas Hau | Feather Couloir left side Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2007 | |
| Very good ice on the route except for the first pitch which was brittle. Six pitches with a 60m rope. We ended up rapping back down the couloir via V threads backed up with cheap Russian ice screws and two rock horns we were able to sling. We camped at Royce lake and the entire route took 13 hours tent to tent. The day prior we hiked 9 hours to get from the Pine Creek trailhead to Royce lake. After climbing the couloir we spent the night again at Royce lake and the next morning hiked 4 hours back to the car (in a snow storm). | |
| Posted Oct 6, 2007 12:31 am | ||
| physics | Route Climbed: Feather Couloir Date Climbed: Sept 9, 2007 Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007 | |
| After quickly soloing the Merriam-Feather Col couloir the previous day with ttriche, we both climbed the Feather Couloir to the summit in 7 hrs r/t from camp between the upper two lakes. Simul-climbed the route in two picthes with 7 screws and a handful of nuts. Bottom of the couloir was air-filled-ice and the top was harder dinner-platting ice. Not too steep but still fun. The walk out killed me and my feet. | |
| Posted Sep 12, 2007 3:04 pm | ||
| derbilly | Feather Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007 | |
| Up southwest ridge, down south slope. Started at Medley lakes, climbed Seven Gables and headed by Vee Lake to Feather Pass to Feather then returned via Seven Gables Pass. | |
| Posted Sep 5, 2007 3:08 am | ||
| forjan | Feather Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007 | |
| Swapped leads with Brad Mastros. 6 pitches total with a 60m rope: Brad took the odd pitches and I did the even ones. We ascended the climber's left side of the couloir as the right side was dirty and littered with rock fall. The condition of the couloir itsef was neve transitioning to ice (there were ice patches for an 2-ice screw belay). Horrendous descent via the east face; had to sacrifice gear to rappel. Camped at the east shore of Upper Royce Lake (11,725'). Camp to camp just over 11 hours. Back at Pine Creek T/H by 10pm. Home in LA by 3am Monday....just another weekend in the Sierra. | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2007 1:38 pm | ||
| Brad Mastros | Feather Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007 | |
| Miguel Forjan and I climbed the Feather couloir as an overnight trip. The route which was a mix of neve and ice was six pitches and outstanding. The decent took longer than expected due to ice that would not hold a v-thread and tons of loose rock. | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2007 12:40 pm | ||
| The Chief | Couloir | |
| First time in '82, since then six times with the last being an unroped 42 min simul run with my buddy Derek Aug '06. The descent down the South Face choss pile really sucks! Almost as bad as the one that parallels the DNFC of Humphries...ahhhhh! Nasty! | |
| Posted Aug 23, 2007 2:54 pm | ||
| Pantilat | southeast slope Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007 | |
| Climbed southeast slope from Feather-Royce saddle as part of Merriam-Royce-Feather traverse/dayhike. I found this route to be quite fun, especially the final couple hundered feet on class 3 slabs. The gravel in the gully was perfect for plunge stepping on the descent. 11 hr, 21 min roundtrip for the dayhike from Pine Creek trailhead. Beautiful weather and area! | |
| Posted Jul 25, 2007 8:10 pm | ||
| dervin | Feather Peak Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2007 | |
| Garth, and I did another death march up this one, and not by intention. Good, long day. | |
| Posted Jul 6, 2007 9:20 pm | ||
| Desert Solitaire | Ridge Traverse Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2007 | |
| Followed the ridge from Merriam - Royce - then Feather. Descended the W/SW Face - bad mistake. lots of 4th/5th class downclimbing. From above, it didn't look so bad, but got stuck a number of times on some hairy moves. Finally found some fortuitous cracks and ramps that led me down, but it was long and tough. Take the South Ridge for descent, don't do the face. | |
| Posted Jul 4, 2007 4:16 pm | ||
| bcd | feather peak Date Climbed: Feb 5, 2006 | |
| North Couloir | |
| Posted Mar 21, 2007 4:35 am | ||
| tdoughty | Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: 1982 | |
| With Dan Curley and Rock Horton. Perfect ice! | |
| Posted Oct 16, 2005 1:04 pm | ||
| rhyang | Route Climbed: Feather couloir Date Climbed: 2-October-2005 | |
| Camped around 11,100' below the Royce Lakes, then climbed couloir the next day. Fresh snow on the glacier and lower couloir, up to 50cm in some places. No bergschrund. We simulclimbed up to about the level of the rock island in the middle of the couloir. David led a pitch of snow / neve / ice patches, then I led the 2 pitches of hard, brittle water ice to the top, mostly on the right side. Split the last pitch into two smaller ones to make it a little easier. About 50-55 degrees, classic Sierra couloir climbing. Rock scramble at the end was easy - solid class 3 in my opinion. After descending the class 2-3 ledges on the southeast slope of the peak we slogged up the sand on the other side of Feather-Royce col and rapped twice on 60m double ropes. The first rap anchor was from good webbing / slings on a rock horn on the climber's right about 100' (?) below the col proper - there was a dirt/snow path down to it. This got us down to a patch of good water ice, where we used a v-thread to get down to some easily-downclimbed fresh snow. Don't underestimate the descent - the class 2-3 ledges are probably treacherous in the dark. Probably also good to recon the rap route. | |
| Posted Oct 4, 2005 11:42 am | ||
| RSN473 | Route Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: August 14, 2001 | |
| We made it harder than in needed to be, but no one complained | |
| Posted Mar 1, 2005 3:53 pm | ||
| Clydascope | Route Climbed: NE Face??? Date Climbed: August 10, 1992 | |
| Don't remember much about the climb, but wrote class 3 in my log??? | |
| Posted Jun 11, 2004 9:02 pm | ||
| Scott M. | Route Climbed: Feather Couloir Date Climbed: September 20, 2003 | |
| Did a car to car trip from the Pine Creek trailhead with Neil Satterfield. It was a long day (13.75 hours) but under perfect conditions. About 7 hours of the time was spent getting to and from Royce Lakes. The ice in the couloir was in great condition with very little rock fall. The last Class 3 bit up to the summit was easy going and the views from on top were outstanding. The descent down the notch between Feather and Royce was loose although the ice could be mostly avoided. Found an old biner on the descent with CP engraved on it. Guessed it may have belonged to Craig Peer.... | |
| Posted Sep 21, 2003 4:48 pm | ||
| kullaberg | Route Climbed: west ridge Date Climbed: aug 99 | |
| great fun, part of a 5 day backpack with good friend dan asay. | |
| Posted Nov 28, 2002 8:20 pm | ||
| dug | Date Climbed: 6/7/1981 | |
| Can't quite remember the route, S ridge sound right? I'll look it up when I get to my log. Fun cl. 3 solo | |
| Posted Nov 11, 2002 2:50 am | ||
| asmrz | Route Climbed: Feather Peak Couloir Date Climbed: October 27,28 1994 | |
| I climbed the Feather Peak Couloir on October 28,1994 after hiking in from Pine Creek Pass. I remember some rock fall from the right side of the couloir, where it ends in the sharp rock ridge. Worrying about the rock fall made me climb the extreme left side of the gully on solid blue ice. The descent was unusual. One downclimbs the ridge toward Royce Col(?), then downclimbs the couloir between Royce and Feather Peaks on 40 degree ice. I liked this ice couloir very much. Its way out there in the backcountry (10 miles +), the area has a lot of lakes and the view of Merriam Peak's buttress is really great. | |
| Posted Nov 10, 2002 2:44 pm | ||
|
