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Evolution Group > Mount Mendel > Climber's Log|
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| Steve1215 | Right Mendel Couloir  Date Climbed: Oct 1, 1993 | |
| Climbed Rt. Mendel with Mike B. Slept in and didn't get on the route until 7am, giving us some lovely rockfall on the lower apron. Encountered a little blue ice, and some poor belay anchors...also remember leading a wide crack, with crampons on. Crux was a traverse across vertical, frozen snow. Brought too many screws and just enough cams. The strenuous approach is not easily forgotten. --Steve | |
| Posted Feb 17, 2009 2:26 pm | ||
| Deb | NE Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008 | |
| After a nine-month absence from the Sierra - Totally loved climbing this ridge and found it quite aesthetic with beautiful granite and bountiful holds. The east face descent, on the other hand, was total bullshit. Perfect weather and dreamy partner - loved it! | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2008 1:37 am | ||
| Dave Daly | Amazing NE Ridge! Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008 | |
| Deb and I made a successful ascent of Mendel via the Northeast Ridge (more like an arete). Been wanting to get on this for years after oogling over the steep northern flanks of Mendel. We both agreed that the route is solid 4th class (especially at the bottom) with fun wild exposure! One of my Top 5 scrambles (4th class and below) in the Sierra. I would HIGHLY recommend this climb! Thanks for the adventure Love! BTW, the East Face is one of the ugliest sections on Mendel. Unfortunately, this was the option we took for the descent. Lots of loose 3rd class. The only enjoyable part was the downclimb from the headwall (4th class). If you're considering this as an ascent, pass it up! :P | |
| Posted Jul 28, 2008 3:57 pm | ||
| jimegan | MT MENDEL Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2003 | |
| CLIMBED WITH PAUL DANIEL FROM THE DARWIN GLACIER AFTER BAGGING DARWIN | |
| Posted Feb 8, 2008 8:06 am | ||
| glahhg | Evolution Traverse Attempt Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007 | |
| Summitted via the ridge from the first unnamed peak, attempting to do the whole Evolution traverse. We kept thinking we were on top of Mendel after a few false summit plateaus. Then we finally saw the real Mendel, and it was freaking FAR away! Bailed after Darwin due to bonking and heavy pack. Next time: more food, lighter pack. | |
| Posted Sep 5, 2007 4:31 pm | ||
| bechtt | SW Face Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007 | |
| Secor's directions for the correct chute were confusing but the giant cairn at the top of the chute I took signified that others had been fooled as well. The ridge was the best part of the climb. Peak #6 on JMT adventure. | |
| Posted Aug 1, 2007 5:22 pm | ||
| Pantilat | East Face Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007 | |
| Climbed the east face after doing the North Face of Darwin but screwed up the route doing the top part of the northeast ridge making it more time consuming than need be. After descending the correct route, I can say that the East Face is not very aesthetic, but the mountain does offer a nice summit view to Darwin and Evolution Basin below. | |
| Posted Jul 9, 2007 1:11 pm | ||
| steve_hiebert | Mendel Right in a day (or so) Date Climbed: Aug 31, 1996 | |
| Done with my partner Demetri. Started at 3:30 am from North Lake. Got back to the car at 4:30 am next day. So it was a bit over 24 hrs. Quite an adventure at the time. Even better in memories some 10 years later. | |
| Posted Jun 15, 2007 8:33 pm | ||
| travelin_light | Route: Right Couloir Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005 | |
| good stuff. | |
| Posted Feb 14, 2007 6:26 am | ||
| forjan | Right Mendel Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2006 | |
| Climbed the right Mendel couloir with MichaelJ. Conditions as of August 26, 2006 were all neve to the chockstone. After that, you have glassy ice for about one 60m pitch. Then, it's mixed 4th class (low 5th) loose rock for another half pitch. The ice goes all the way to the notch narrowing down to 3ft wide at the top. Michael and I roped up for 1 pitch and solo'ed the rest. Bergshrund is easily crossed on climber's left. I went to take a look at the right side of the 'shrund and it had an approx 15-foot wide separation. Started out at 5:36am from a camp (elev ~ 11,800')near the east-most lake on Darwin Canyon. Took us about 3 hrs from the bergshrund to the notch. Summited around 11:15am or so. Back in camp around 1:30pm (8 hrs camp-to-camp). | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2006 12:36 am | ||
| dug | Ice Nine Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006 | |
| We were too early and route was not in at the steepest sections, first chockstone,(M4-5), crux bulge, (5.7), and final ~50 ft. to summit ridge. Ended up finishing via rock climb. Simul-soloed the route w/Jeffn 08/30/2005 Route Climbed: Right Mendel couloir Solo. Nice climb but relatively easy. Fantastic view | |
| Posted Aug 20, 2006 4:46 pm | ||
| The Chief | Ice Nine again! Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2003 | |
| ICE NINE was "IN"(as good as it gets up top...thin but purchaseable with tools and used two 10cm screws just to say I placed em but medium offsets/nuts and #1 and #2 Camalot's will suffice)and was very enjoyable. Roundtrip from N Lake parking lot, 22 hours. This was my second ascent of this Ghost Sierra Classic. WI3+M4ish would be more appropriate for the avid and experienced technical ice climbers. Need to stay within realistic measures of the modern Tech/Mixed Ice Rating Standards. But then again, that is simply my opinion! And everyone has an..... | |
| Posted Mar 23, 2006 2:51 am | ||
| graham | Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: Aug-8-05 | |
| Day 4 of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Thanks to Ron Hudson for leading us up the loose East face gullies | |
| Posted Nov 25, 2005 2:45 pm | ||
| tdoughty | Route Climbed: Rt Couloir Date Climbed: September | |
| With James Barnett | |
| Posted Oct 16, 2005 1:44 pm | ||
| Michael Graupe | Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: August 8, 2005 | |
| Day 4 of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Climbed with Ron H. and Rick G. Routefinding on the east face was less problematic than anticipated. Fun class 3/4 climbing on the uppermost part of the NE ridge. | |
| Posted Sep 27, 2005 4:54 pm | ||
| doc K | Route Climbed: Rt. Couloir Date Climbed: Sept 2,2005 | |
| Team of three. Lots of dinner plating but good ice low and into the couloir. Last two pitches were thin to no ice and lots of loose rock. Night fell at top of couloir and forced a bivy with one pitch left...made for a great a.m. summit. Great route. | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2005 2:09 am | ||
| poorboy44 | Route Climbed: Right Mendel Couloir Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005 | |
| Climbed this in a long day with Charles Ince. My first real ice climb. 9 pitches from the bergshrund to the top. Ice was dinnerplating badly. Not sure where the actual descent goes, we ended up having to do some rappels. The hike out over Lamarck Col was a killer, man I am beat today. ~22 hours tent to tent. | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2005 2:09 pm | ||
| Bob Burd | Route Climbed: NE Ridge (ascent) / East Face (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2005 | |
| Day 4 of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. The NE Ridge was a fine scramble, but Secor's class 3 rating is seriously sandbagged, or else it is the hardest class 3 I've ever encountered in the Sierra. Trip Report | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2005 12:45 am | ||
| Matthew Holliman | Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2005 | |
| Fun scramble, better than advertised--mostly class 2 lower down, and then numerous class 4 possibilities to climb the headwall and reach the uppermost portion of the NE Ridge. There's some loose stuff around the class 2 portion, but it was fairly easy to keep to more solid rock too. Never saw anything matching Secor's description around the final headwall, but there were so many options I didn't look for it either--we found at least three ways in all. I climbed a steep (i.e. nearly vertical) lieback and chimney system to gain the ridge directly (spicy); on the descent, we found a huge collection of slings above a very easy 10-foot class 3-4 "downclimb" (not much of a downclimb--you actually just lower yourself down onto the next really huge hold)... quite strange. I hoped to tag Darwin as well, but some very black clouds blew over the notch as I was heading up, so I bailed on that. Return to the car took less than three hours from the Darwin Glacier, so at least it'll be a short day to go back... | |
| Posted Aug 17, 2005 1:15 pm | ||
| Brian Frederick | Route Climbed: Right Mendel couloir Date Climbed: Fall 1982 | |
| This was a great climb. David and I did this on a weekend blast. The first couple of hundred feet were hard Neve, the rest hard ice; dinnerplating but solid. After I spent too long setting up a belay we were passed by a faster team just as it narrowed down. Much falling ice from whoever was climbing meant only one party could climb at a time and the upper party was generous enough to stop after each pitch to let us climb a pitch. Eventually we all four joined up and swapped leads so only one climber had to lead each pitch and the rest could move faster on a top rope. As it was I came up the last mixed pitch in the dark, terrified of planting my axe thru the rope. I remember seeing the sparks when I hit rock with the pick. Bivyed at the top of the couloir just on the other side of the ridge, with moonlight views of the evolution basin. Got to the summit at dawn and hiked out that day. | |
| Posted Feb 24, 2005 11:56 pm | ||
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