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Jack Mountain Climber's Log
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cp0915S Face via Jerry Lakes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2007

I must echo what setrent said. The route finding for the Jerry Lakes approach was reasonable. The lakes make a nice camp spot.

Crampons and axe are definitely useful on the snowfield leading up to the face. The face is largely loose 3rd, with a short section of 4th (or easy 5th) at the bottom. A rope, while not necessary, was comforting, particularly on the descent of the crux.

Not a technically demanding mountain, but it is strenuous. It took our party about 6.5 hours from the TH to camp, and another 5.5 hours or so from camp to summit.

RT was 22 miles, with about 11,000 feet of gain.
Posted Jul 22, 2007 5:03 am

setrentSouth Face via Jerry Lakes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2006
Having approached the South Face by Little Jack and Jerry Lakes, I would recommend the Jerry Lakes approach. The route finding is simple, and the lakes provide excellent camping. The approach to the face from the lakes is straightforward also. Allow five hours minimum from the car to the lakes, and four hours from there to the summit. Ice axe and crampons required for the glacier, especially in late season, but no rope needed for the climb. The face is mostly loose unprotectable third with a short pitch of fourth class climbing. Bring helmet.
Posted Sep 29, 2006 5:50 pm

pauleRoute Climbed: "Little Jack" route Date Climbed: November 2, 2002  Sucess!

This climb had the longest approach I have been on thus far, especially when loaded down with 85+ pounds. Like most areas in the fall / winter 2002, Jack was was unseasonably dry. As a result, I carried up 7 quarts of water. It was a good thing, because I found areas with only trace amounts of water.



Other than lack of water on the mountain, the conditions were great. The weather was very clear, and lows were down to a crip +20 degrees with 0 wind in the evening. I awoke from camp at 3:30 AM on top of Little Jack to see fresh cougar tracks right next to camp, but that was the extent of any "wildlife" that I had seen the entire trip. There was encounter with a large fire at about 5500 feet very near the trail, which was quite demoralizing. The rangers had informed that the fire was "under control" two days prior to me setting out for Jack, but this fire was not finished burning. This became an increased incentive to kick things in high gear, and get way up above it. Fortunately, the fire had stalled, and was smoldering out the following day on my descent.



Once on massif of Jack, there was lots of scree and, and occasionally some large rock movement. Trying to find a route with more stable rock was almost futile. A very long approach, but a well-rewarded weekend.
Posted Feb 24, 2003 4:58 pm

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