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| Tom Fralich | Beckey Route, El Segundo Buttress (III 5.9)  Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009 | |
| Mary and I climbed this route on a weekend trip to the Eastern Sierra and it was absolutely stellar. The approach was a bit annoying, but the route more than made up for it with sustained and interesting climbing on every pitch. The climbing on P2 before the roof was particularly good and amazingly exposed. Lots of intricate climbing on the upper pitches with some tricky and sometimes widely spaced gear. We managed to wind our way down on mostly 3rd class terrain back to the road. This climb is definitely worthy of more attention and deserving of classic status. | |
| Posted Sep 28, 2009 11:03 pm | ||
| LOWERme | Route Climbed: Premier Buttress / El Segundo Buttress Date Climbed: Mid 80s | |
| I made two trips up there with Craig Peer and Co. in the mid 80s. On the first trip we did an old Becky route on El Segundo Buttress. It was Craig, Mike Meng, Myself, and I think I'm forgetting someone! Anyway, I believe we got off route somewhere, or at least thought we had, but managed to summit anyway, swapping leads as we went. On the second trip, Tom Granneman, Leslie, Sonia, and I went up Premier Buttress to free the old bolt ladder, ( homemade aluminium hangers ), on the Becky route. It had previously been freed, I believe at 5.10+ As I recall, the rest of the route, although somewhat historical even back then, was a little less than stellar. | |
| Posted Feb 1, 2006 3:26 am | ||
| Matthew Holliman | Route Climbed: Premier Buttress Date Climbed: June 4, 2005 | |
| Climbed this with Brian Decker as a warm-up for Whitney's East Buttress the next day. We got off route on the first couple of pitches, and although Brian led the whole thing with style, I flailed, aided, and desperately clawed my way up some of the hardest climbing I've floundered on outdoors. Cool views of Lone Pine, Irvine, Thor, and the Whitney Portal area. | |
| Posted Jul 17, 2005 10:42 pm | ||
| ksolem | Route Climbed: Boney Fingers, The Whale Date Climbed: August 2000 | |
| A Really cool route. Climbed with Lynn Bowering. Liked it so much I came back the following year and did it again with Guyzo Keesee. Some thin face moves get you to a fantastic splitter crack... | |
| Posted Jun 16, 2005 5:26 pm | ||
| Clydascope | Route Climbed: Premier Buttress, Solstice Celibration Date Climbed: Late 80's | |
| "The first" was a fun climb, old ratty bolts at the time. Watched some friends climb it the day before and did not know it was them. Solstice was sporty. Got about half way up the Whitney Portal Buttress once, time ran out and we bailed. Done some other shorter things too. | |
| Posted Jul 7, 2004 11:27 pm | ||
| mtnfoto | Route Climbed: Unknown Routes on the S side of the canyon Date Climbed: 1994 | |
| Alan Bartlett and I climbed 2 2-pitch routes on the Candlelight Buttress side of the canyon. They were in the 5.8-5.10 range on excellent rock. | ||
| Posted Jan 27, 2004 10:57 am | ||
| Eric Tipton | Route Climbed: The Whale "Boney Fingers" 5.10 Date Climbed: June 2003 | |
| Iclimbed this great route with Bob Cable. The first two pitches of this route climbed a thin spliter finger crack, thank god for the knobs that dot the route. There are rap anchors after the short third pitch but you need 2 60m ropes to get off from here. We took it to the top, the last two pitches wer'nt of the same quality as the first two. We decended down the west side. | ||
| Posted Jul 11, 2003 11:55 pm | ||
| Eric Tipton | Route Climbed: W.P.Buttress. "Satoris" IV 5.10 Date Climbed: May, 2000 | |
| This route is a fabulous,Sierra route without the typical Sierra approach. After a short 45 minute approach Bob Cable and I were at the base of 1000 ft. plus Whitney Portal Buttress. Eleven pitches later we were on the summit. This route is a bit sporty, but the climbing was great. Expect long runnouts on the slabby pitches with very few 1/4" bolts , but all the crux sections had some pro. 14 hours car to car. | ||
| Posted Jan 25, 2003 11:45 am | ||
| Craig Peer | Route Climbed: Whitney Portal Buttress Date Climbed: August 7, 1983 | |
| Did this wild route with Duncan Laing. 3 words describe it - hard, long and interesting. Don't screw up on the descent like we did ( rappelling from a single manzanita bush on a blank wall - not recommended )! | |
| Posted Oct 17, 2002 10:27 am | ||
| Craig Peer | Route Climbed: Premiere Buttress Date Climbed: August 2, 1981 | |
| Climbed this route with Duncan Laing. A fun and enjoyable climb! | |
| Posted Oct 17, 2002 10:23 am | ||
| Craig Peer | Route Climbed: El Segundo Buttress Date Climbed: July 1981 | |
| An interesting Fred Beckey special.......... | |
| Posted Oct 17, 2002 10:21 am | ||
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Sierra Nevada
