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Mount Mallory Climber's Log
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hikineddEast Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2007

Led a Sierra Club group up the gully to the left of the snow-filled one. Weather, the large group, and the inability to quickly locate the exact spot to cross over the ridge precluded a climb of Irvine. Traversed back to our ascent chute and back to camp just as the thunder and rain started.

And I agree with Matthew. This was the second time I've been up that slope (the first for LeConte last year) and I think that's enough for a lifetime.
Posted Sep 5, 2007 12:29 am

kovarpatraverse from Irvine  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007

with Vendulka. A nice 3rd class traverse, second peak of the day. Clouds building up...
Posted Sep 5, 2007 12:13 am

MoabPeakBaggereasy traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2006

climbed along with LeConte. Beautiful snow climb up an incredible chute from Meysan Lake.
Posted Jun 9, 2007 8:36 pm

Desert SolitaireFrom all around!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2006

McAdie-Mallory-Irvine loop via Consultation Lake. Apparently I got a taste for just about every route on this peak. From the saddle near Arc Pass, I tried first to make a direct ridgeline traverse to Mallory from the North(failed - got cliffed out after some tough 4th/5th moves), so descended 1000 ft on the West side and ascended again from the South. Descended the East ridge and traversed to Irvine. Needless to say, I didn't like this peak very much - but thats very much my own fault!
Posted Sep 29, 2006 2:39 am

jonhershEast Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2003

Enjoyable snow climb from Meysan Lake. Thought about going for Irvine, but the weather looked sketchy.
Posted Sep 1, 2006 5:12 am

Steve LarsonSki descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 19, 2006

I humped my skis all the way to the Mallory-LeConte plateau. By then I was way behind schedule due to sleeping in and finding much less snow down low than I expected. I was going to climb LeConte, but decided not to mess with it. The weather was coming in from the west, though it didn't look too bad. The summit ridge was kind of fun. It started snowing by the time I got my skis on. The ski descent from the plateau to Meysan Lake was superb despite the bad weather. Below that the skiing was all about survival to about 10,000 feet, where I picked up the trail and walked out.
Posted May 20, 2006 4:14 pm

bechttRoute Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: 1 Oct 05  Sucess!

Class 3 traverse variation from Mt Irvine. To avoid snow in the Irvine basin, descended part way down to Arc Pass and counted buttresses over. Miscounted by 1 and climbed Class 4/5 peaklet to the west of Mallory. After attempting incorrect sporty descent (5.10+), found easier way to the start of Class 3 climb up Mallory. Descent via Mallory plateau to Meysan Lake.
Posted Oct 2, 2005 8:27 pm

AlRoute Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 2, 05  Sucess!

Good day. Irvine & Mallory from Meysan Lake.
Posted Sep 27, 2005 11:58 pm

forjanRoute Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: September 10, 2005  Sucess!

First peak of the day on my solo link-up of Mallory/LeConte/Lone Pine Peak. Left the Meysan trailhead at 5:00am. Summited Mallory at 10:01am, summited LeConte at 11:12am and finally Lone Pine Peak at 2:00pm.
Posted Sep 11, 2005 2:06 pm

tiogapRoute Climbed: 2nd class Date Climbed: August, 1980  Sucess!

climbed along with Irvine
Posted Sep 8, 2005 10:54 pm

physicsRoute Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: July 2, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed after Irvine; did not do the complete traverse because we got off route; ended up dropping ~1000 feet and going up the SW gully which reachs the notch between the Mallory's true summit and the lesser summit to the north. One of us climbed the chimney while another by-passed it for something a little faster. Rested for about 20 mins at the top. good day...
Posted Jul 4, 2005 1:06 am

granite4brainsRoute Climbed: From Meysan Lake Date Climbed: 08/27/04  Sucess!

Dayhiked from the portal. Took the class 3 route up ... the class 3 was nice ... but, the rest of the climb up that slope was f'ing heinous. was surprised by more fun class 3 near the summit.
Posted Mar 4, 2005 10:34 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2004  Sucess!

Not one of my better outings this summer. At one time, I'd entertained the notion of trying to knock off Corcoran, LeConte, Mallory, McAdie, and Irvine all in a day. Realism subsequently set in, and I scaled back objectives to LeConte, Corcoran, and Mallory.



But even with this modest plan, I failed miserably: A rather pathetic effort saw me climb only Mallory, as route-finding difficulties thwarted me on LeConte/Corcoran. At least Mallory was better than I expected, with some mildly airy scrambling around the summit.



Oh yeah, I forgot to mention--I'm never, ever again hiking up to the LeConte-Mallory plateau from Meysan Lake. What a slog! Ugh!
Posted Nov 22, 2004 12:44 am

CompletebumRoute Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: September 4 2004  Sucess!

Came over from Mt. Leconte and decended the NW Ridge to Arc Pass. Surprisingly there was no slogging on this peak, well except for the 2,000 ft or so up to the plateau.
Posted Sep 6, 2004 2:45 pm

ShanoRoute Climbed: Meysan Lake straight to the top Date Climbed: Aug 2003  Sucess!

Did this as a day hike from Portal Rd (bivied @ Tuttle Creek - not the best preparation) via Meysan Lake trail.

3 of the party linked to Irvine after we topped out on Mallory. I had to bring down an altitude sick partner and was not able to knock off Mallory. Descent route down the chute between Mallory and Irvine looks like a good winter/spring pitch given enough ice formation.

Back at the cars at 10pm (not a very fast day.)

I'll be back to do this one again...
Posted Apr 1, 2004 10:19 am

cragRoute Climbed: East slope Date Climbed: August 1999  Sucess!

Spent the night at Meysan Lake and got an early start on the East slope. Fun summit block, great view. Lots of rockfall in the gulley. Should have combined with Irvine and/or LeConte. Oh well, next time.
Posted Jan 23, 2004 1:08 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: East slopes Date Climbed: 1998  Sucess!
Climbed this as a day hike with Irvine and Candlelight.
Posted Jan 22, 2004 3:00 pm

thebeave7Route Climbed: Up East Slope, down North ridge Date Climbed: August 29th, 2003  Sucess!

Peak number three on the day. The down climb was a lot more fun. Bob will be happy to know that the West side of the North ridge is a fun Class 3 down climb. I will submit both a trip report and a route report for this.
Posted Aug 30, 2003 10:30 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: August 25 '02  Sucess!

Climbed Mallory as part of the '02 Sierra Mountaineers Challenge. Great back-to-back climb with Mt LeConte.
Posted Mar 3, 2003 5:11 pm

dugRoute Climbed: S. slope Date Climbed: 10/2/1985  Sucess!

Climbed in conjuction with LeConte
Posted Dec 1, 2002 7:35 am

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