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John Muir Wilderness > Mount Mills > Climber's Log|
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| soslaw | East Ridge  Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009 | |
| Perhaps because I am tall the chockstone crux was no more than class 3. Otherwise a loose slog rewarded by a great view. | |
| Posted Sep 21, 2009 2:48 pm | ||
| Sam Roberts | East Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2009 | |
| Not much to add to what everyone else has said, except: Never again!! | |
| Posted Aug 21, 2009 6:52 pm | ||
| Bob Burd | Traverse from Ruby Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008 | |
| The traverse took Tom Becht (below) and I five hours where I thought it would take two - a much bigger adventure than I'd expected. But it turned out to be great fun and great company. Trip Report | |
| Posted Sep 1, 2008 2:16 pm | ||
| Michael Graupe | East Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008 | |
| Day 2 of the 2008 Sierra Challenge. The couloir is awfully loose, one of the worst I have climbed in a long time. Beautiful views from the summit. Tagged Lookout peak on the way back as well. Some Photos. | |
| Posted Aug 26, 2008 7:17 pm | ||
| bechtt | Traverse from Ruby Peak Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008 | |
| The highlight of the 2008 Sierra Challenge for me. The traverse from Ruby Peak was thrilling and nerve racking -- and this is one week after successfully doing the Palisades Traverse (T-Bolt - Sill). Thanks to Bob Burd for talking me into it. | |
| Posted Aug 23, 2008 8:21 pm | ||
| McCannster | Sierra Challenge Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008 | |
| Day of Sierra Challenge, very loose going up the coulier. Did my best to not send rocks careening down the mountainside, but failed. Nice views from on top. | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2008 6:18 pm | ||
| dustytrail | East Couloir Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2007 | |
| Above the chockstone I stayed far right on some hard cl 3 rock to avoid the loose scree..fun stuff | ||
| Posted Oct 17, 2007 5:48 pm | ||
| salad | Route Climbed: East Couloir (descended VanDalsem variation) Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2006 | |
| 5.5 hours car to car at an easy pace. This route is loose and I would not do it again. Suggest North Ridge instead. Solo it and bring your helmet in case someone is descending while you are headed up. | |
| Posted Sep 14, 2006 9:48 pm | ||
| Completebum | Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: May 29, 2005 | |
| In hind sight I guess I appreciate this climb more than I did at the time. Went up the left fork and bailed to the rock when the snow became mushy/inconsistent by 8am, seriously WTF? Bailed back to the snow after pulling on several loose blocks and finding several holds covered with ice. I eventually made the summit in a pretty bad mood after postholing to my thighs on the upper parts of the couloir. After enjoying the views/cursing the mountain I left to decend the right fork hoping it would be better....I was wrong. The upper part felt like 50 degrees (steeper than the chutes above the notch on Whitneys MR) so I faced the slope and down climbed it. Several times I sank into my crotch when stepping down-each followed by odd combinations of profanity. After scrambling down some more crappy rock I made it to the "safety" of the lower slopes. I bidded the mountian a single finger solute (by that time I couldn't think of any more novel curses) and plunge-stepped from there. | |
| Posted May 31, 2005 12:49 pm | ||
| Matthew Holliman | Route Climbed: East Couloir (descended VanDalsem variation) Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2004 | |
| Day 3 of the Sierra Challenge was for a peak I'd climbed, so I headed out here to settle a score. My first two tries on this route this summer had ended in abject failure. The first saw me misidentifying the summit, climbing another couloir further to the north, and subsequently enjoying my first unplanned waterless bivy somewhere off Mills' North Ridge. The second avoided a bivy at least, but saw me try the wrong fork of the couloir, leading to loose, scary class 4 climbing. This time, I identified the correct couloir. For a class 3 climb, the crux moves past the chockstone are surprisingly tricky--they were harder than any of the 4th class stuff I scrambled that week, with loose rock, poor holds, and endless sand pouring down in my face to blind me while I thrashed about. Not too much fun at the time, but highly amusing in retrospect. I've never encountered anything quite like it anywhere else. The couloir is dangerously loose, but really no more than class 2 once past the chockstone. I descended the rib to the north; this involves more class 3, but isn't quite as loose. (It still requires descending the difficult chockstone though). | |
| Posted Nov 17, 2004 8:53 pm | ||
| Clydascope | Route Climbed: East Coulior Date Climbed: June 22, 1987 | |
| Day hike with some friends. | |
| Posted Jun 24, 2004 10:57 pm | ||
| Dave K | Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: August 28, 2003 | |
| IMHO, this is one of the more dangerous routes I've climbed. Lotsa loose rocks on this one! | |
| Posted Sep 2, 2003 11:48 am | ||
| dug | Route Climbed: SW face Date Climbed: 6/24/1988 | |
| Nice climb as part of trip through the recesses and out over cox col | |
| Posted Feb 11, 2003 9:52 am | ||
| Bob Burd | Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: Jul 2, 1999 | |
| A very pleasant solo outing - very loose rock and tricky route-finding - what more can one ask? Trip Report. | |
| Posted Feb 10, 2003 8:23 pm | ||
| bearbnz | Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: August 1999 | |
| Very few tourists around on this day. Some of the blocks in the couloir are scary loose. | |
| Posted Feb 10, 2003 7:24 pm | ||
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