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Smith Rock Crags > Smith: Monkey Face > Climber's Log|
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| Tom Fralich | West Face Variation (5.8 A0)  Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008 | |
| Hiked in early to climb in the shade. First 2 pitches were fun, but a drastic change from the granite of the Cascades and Squamish. The bolt ladder went really quickly...we were able to do it by pulling on draws. The bolts are so close together that true aid isn't really necessary. The last pitch was insanely exposed and the summit was fantastic. A great day in a really cool place, on an iconic piece of rock. | |
| Posted Jul 26, 2008 7:55 pm | ||
| Mr. Clam | Pioneer Date Climbed: Mar 31, 2008 | |
| A great climb, did the bolt ladder with no aiders and had a bit of trouble but not too bad. | |
| Posted Apr 1, 2008 12:40 am | ||
| spotly | Pioneer Route Date Climbed: May 6, 2006 | |
| Climbed with Brian F. Got a bit off on the first pitch and lowered down to the start of pitch 2 LOL. What a blast coming over the notch then out the mouth. Good stuff. Not a single soul seen the entire climb...on a nice Saturday! | |
| Posted Jul 20, 2007 3:35 pm | ||
| pvalchev | West face + Pioneer Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006 | |
| Very cool climb... did draw pull-ups on the way up the A0 pitch, no need for 'aid gear' as there are lots of footholds and the bolts are really close together. Awesome double rope rappel! | |
| Posted Aug 19, 2006 6:11 am | ||
| Dow Williams | West Face Variation Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2006 | |
| We pulled on our draws instead of aiding...goes easy and fast. Definitely better than the Pioneer route. Those bottom two pitches are great. Not Utah, but still fun. | |
| Posted Aug 19, 2006 5:16 am | ||
| Duseks | Pioneer Route Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2006 | |
| Awesome to finally climb the monkey face. The bolt ladder was interesting. We did some kind of variation out of panic point that traversed right and took us all the way to the top, prolonging the crazy exposure. I'd rate the variation as 5.8 with a healthy 25ft plus runout at one point, totally worth it, must've combined a few routes. -Scotty | |
| Posted Jul 17, 2006 8:22 am | ||
| M and N Denyer | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route/Monkey Off My Back Date Climbed: October 16, 2005 | |
| Enjoyed another climb up the Monkey on a beautiful fall day at Smith. The Monkey Off My Back pitch was exciting and definitely highlighted the exposure well. As always, fun rappel. | |
| Posted Oct 31, 2005 1:41 pm | ||
| Brian Jenkins | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route with Monkey Off My Back finish variation Date Climbed: October 16, 2005 | |
| Whew, finally stood on top. With M and N Denyer. First pitch easy. Second Pitch no problems. We were the third party of 4 this day to do the Big Primate. Weather was sunny and about 70. Aid pitch went off pretty quick without a hitch. Didn't even get cold in the Mouth. I made Mark tell me he was just doing the easy route up to the Nose but of course, he did not. So, not only did I get the pucker of Panic Point, had to do the 5.8 traverse while gripped out several hundred overhung feet off the deck. Many profanities later....................... I was standing on the top. Then, the long twisting free air rap. Was glad to get this one done and thanks to the Denyers for the great weekend at Smith. | |
| Posted Oct 16, 2005 10:52 pm | ||
| PellucidWombat | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: September 3rd, 2005 | |
| Climbed this awesome spire with Dirk on an extended trip to OR to climb the 3 Sisters. I expected that I could just jug up the aid pitch, but instead I had to learn how to aid climb on the spot (and in the dark) to clean the pitch! I never realized how exausting aid climbing was until then :-) I tried to wimp out at the cave, but Dirk insisted on finishing, and I'm glad we did! The views were wonderful, and the rappel in the dark was freaky, especially as the wind began spinning me! | |
| Posted Sep 17, 2005 7:19 pm | ||
| Diggler | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: 3 September, 2005 | |
| Awesome formation, enjoyable climb! First attempt at aid. Having driven in from NorCal the night before, got a late start, leaving the parking lot at 15.25. Started the climb at 17.20. First 2 pitches were easy but fun. Bolt ladder pitch took awhile, but not overly difficult except for that piece of shit adjustable daisy chain that I just could NOT figure out how to use correctly- whenever I weighted it, it would slowly start extending! Panic point was aptly named- knowing the rope ran over a reasonably sharp edge from the belay cave, & the deep, sucking void directly below me in the dark, had me clinging to those buckets for dear life (not to mention sitting around in a cave getting chilled and cramped for an hour or 2 also beforehand!)- definitely the most psychologically taxing 5.7 I've done! Final 'pitch' was short, easy, & enjoyable. Finally topped out @ 12.37. Seeing the lights of Terrebonne & Bend below & being under the stars was really cool. Free-hanging rappel in the dark was sweet! | |
| Posted Sep 8, 2005 12:15 pm | ||
| hkutuk | Route Climbed: West Face Variation Date Climbed: June 11, 2005 | |
| This was simply an awesome climb. This was my third attempt (all from different routes) and finally standing on top of this pillar was incredible. Climbed with Jim first the 3-pitch West Face Variation to Bohn street. These additional 3 pitches are definitely well worth the effort. Aiding the bolt ladder instead of jumaring was much easier. The long rappel and hanging free in the air was also quite exciting. Great climb, thanks Jim! | |
| Posted Jun 15, 2005 7:39 pm | ||
| jtschanz | Route Climbed: West Face Variation Date Climbed: June 11, 2005 | |
| After our failure last fall, it was great to finally stand on top of Monkey Face. The West Face Variation is an awesome route by itself, but even more fun when combined with the bolt ladder and the summit. Unless you're skilled at jumaring, it's definitely faster to have the second simply aid the bolt ladder also. I had been looking forward to the "Panic Point" pitch for almost a year - ever since the last attempt - and this time it was much easier and more enjoyable. This is a route I wouldn't mind doing again. | |
| Posted Jun 13, 2005 11:45 am | ||
| cluck | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: May 29, 2005 | |
| Wow - that's one of the toughest "easy" climbs I've ever done. At 5.7 A0, the rating suggests fairly straightforward climbing, but you really have to earn this one. The mix of trad, sport, and aid requires some well-thought-out strategy if you want to complete the route in reasonable time. Moving out of the mouth cave and onto the face was the hardest 5.7 climbing I've ever done. All technique went out the window and I had a death-grip on the holds. All-in-all a spectacular climb that I can't wait to repeat! | |
| Posted Jun 1, 2005 1:34 am | ||
| rpc | Multiple Routes | |
| Rising Expectations (Sept. 2007) Shirley led this as her first aid lead. Probably C1. West Face ('gain in June 2007) this time with a 150 lbs pig for shits & giggles. East Face (Apr. 2007) Rained all night prior. Drizzled all day. Then the wind picked up and started hosing us sideways. Bailed off after 1st pitch. Fun - a step up from West Face. West Face (Mar. 2007) Rainy day (morning anyway) = aid climbing. Nice line for learning how to do it. P1 is mostly straightforward nutting. P2 & 3 bolt ladders can easily be run together to cave (some reachy bolts). P4 is another short bolt ladder. Dolf's Dihedral (Mar. 2007) Direct 10a start avoids shit rock. Upper 5.8 crack is sweeeet though short. Perpetual Motion (Mar. 2007) A decent 5.9 crack that pulls around some intimidating chockstones. Got up only to find the 3 anchor angles dangling from an ancient piece of tat. Pioneer Route (Feb. 2003) West Face Variation (first two pitches of the standard, route "13") West Face (first pitch followed and later led, both times done as aid climbs) West Face Variation (standard) to Bohn Street (Feb. 14, 2004) West Face Variation "direct" to Bohn Street in two pitches (Apr. 17, 2004). Pioneer Route (August 28, 2004). Took my little brother up this fun formation as the 3rd rock climb of his life (and 1st unbelayed rappel). Spinner bolt with tiny hole in the mouth cave has been replaced. West Face Variation "direct" to Bohn Street in two pitches with variation (5.8) start on pitch 1. Shirley led the whole thing and we both thought the 5.8 variation start was kind of hard for the grade (March 6, 2005). | |
| Posted Mar 7, 2005 1:18 pm | ||
| jhalz | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: January 22, 2005 | |
| Amazing Jan. day. We were the first ones on the route. The bolt ladder was a fun new experience. | |
| Posted Jan 27, 2005 10:28 am | ||
| Spungdeeper | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: 11/7/04 | |
| Lead the 2nd pitch and the third. There was three of us and it took a rediuclously long time, with the person seconding me on the aid pitch unable to finish the cleaning, rapped off and left gear and a headache on the ladder. MONKEY FACE I WILL BE BACK. Run, get to the Chopper. | |
| Posted Nov 12, 2004 5:51 am | ||
| jtschanz | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: September 12, 2004 | |
| I'm putting down an attempt as well because, damn it, it was a lot of work!! Haydar and I got halfway up the bolt ladder only to discover a bolt missing. There was no way to reach the next bolt (over 6 feet above my head). So we rapped down and started scheming. Haydar ran back to the car for the tent poles while I fashioned a clip stick out of a biner, rubber band, and two shoelaces. I then jumared back up to the ledge, belayed Haydar up, and got back on the bolt ladder. Duct taping the biner to the tent pole, I extended the 20-foot pole, reached up, and clipped the next bolt. Shocked that it actually worked, I tied slings to extend my aiders and somehow made up up the ladder. Cleaning the pitch was difficult, but Haydar made it up into the cave as well. However we had both spent too long on the aid and we were tired and hungry. I basically chickened out on the 5.7 move out of the cave, took a short fall, and lost all desire to continue. We rapped off with a new respect for aid climbing and exposed 5.7 moves ... | |
| Posted Sep 13, 2004 1:41 pm | ||
| M and N Denyer | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route and West Face Variation Date Climbed: multiple | |
| We have enjoyed Monkey Face numerous times on both the Pioneer Route and the West Face Variation. | |
| Posted Mar 29, 2004 6:23 pm | ||
| wildstar | Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: April 1995 | |
| Great trip with a good friend. My first experience with aiders which was laughable but we made it. Looking forward to doing it again some day. | |
| Posted Jan 3, 2004 6:18 pm | ||
| Brian Jenkins | Route Climbed: West Face Variation, Pioneer Route Date Climbed: February 15 and 16, 2003 | |
| oh well, guess it's ok to put down attempts, right?............... Saturday tried the West Face Variation but with 4 of us and some interesting rope snags, it took forever. We got up 2 pitches and then rapped off as we knew we wouldn't make it. Went back Sunday and tried the Pioneer Route. Made it to Bohn Street and the wind picked up, some snow started and my testicles were nowhere to be found looking up at the aid pitch having never done any aiding before. So, I rapped down while 2 others went on. They made it to the Nose but the snow was blowing sideways by then and they just rapped off from there. Another group had set up a Tyrolean traverse to the Springboard with some webbing and were going back and forth. Found out they were setting up a line to try to tightrope walk it. Watched one guy get one foot on it and then back off dozens of times before it looked like they figured it was too windy. | |
| Posted Feb 17, 2003 9:37 am | ||
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