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Sequoia/Kings Canyon NP > Mount Thompson > Climber's Log|
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| soslaw | Moynier Couloir  Date Climbed: Oct 8, 2005 | |
| Moynier couloir (to the climber's far right sometimes referred to as the north couloir). It had snowed over night covering the couloir's alpine ice with fresh snow. The chock stone covered with fresh snow made this pitch live up to its crux rep. Low clouds and a fresh dusting of the surrounding peaks made for great vistas on top. Because of the fresh snow we did not descend the Thompson ridge, but rapped the Knutsen couloir. | |
| Posted Oct 21, 2009 5:22 pm | ||
| physics | Route Climbed: Moynier Couloir Date Climbed: July 27, 2008 Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008 | |
| A good day out w/ Tim from USC; couloir was melting out up top; we will never go near the Thompson ridge again - that place is a death trap. | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2008 4:58 pm | ||
| Brad Mastros | Moynier Couloir Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2008 | |
| Miguel Forjan and I climbed the Moynier Couloir in great conditions. One of the best sierra climbs I have done, steep ice and some mixed climbing. | |
| Posted Jun 29, 2008 1:00 pm | ||
| dug | Harrington Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2006 | |
| Didn't catch good ice conditions. Descended rib between Harrington and Smrz until back into lower Harrington. Good descent option. N Ridge from sunset lk. Date Climbed: 7/18/1984 | |
| Posted Nov 27, 2006 4:00 pm | ||
| MichaelJ | Harrington Couloir Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2005 | |
| Easy neve climb for most of the way with patches of ice. Last pitch was the crux: several inches of snow covering steep brittle ice, both of which I unfortunately sent down on the party below. Bit of a hike to the summit but a great day, despite the ensuing rap epic detailed in my TR. | |
| Posted Mar 20, 2006 8:48 pm | ||
| PellucidWombat | Route Climbed: September 25th, 2005 Date Climbed: Harrington Couloir | |
| fun climb, good friends, and sunny weather. What more could one ask for?! | |
| Posted Dec 16, 2005 9:45 pm | ||
| soslaw | Route Climbed: Harrington Couloir Date Climbed: Oct 6, 2005 | |
| Climbed with Peter Doucette. Ascent was via the Harrington couloir was a straight forward hard neve and alpine ice climb followed by a descent of the Knutsen couloir. | |
| Posted Oct 10, 2005 12:23 pm | ||
| awagher | Route Climbed: Harrington Couloir Date Climbed: sept 25th, 2005 | |
| Climbed the route by soloing and simulclimbing with 3 on the rope. Long day out. 5 man rap stations took hours to get down. Great fun though. Did not summit. My ankle was killing me. Got back to the car around 11:pm. | |
| Posted Oct 3, 2005 1:50 pm | ||
| forjan | Route Climbed: Harrington Couloir Date Climbed: September 25, 2005 | |
| Left our camp at approx 11,600 ft by 6am. Simulclimbed the whole couloir with awagher and Matt K, while MichaelJ and PellucidWombat climbed in a separate rope. Summited at noon and then the 5 of us (awagher, Matt K, MichaelJ, PellucidWombat and I) rappelled the Harrington. We started the raps at 1pm and didn't finish 'til 6pm: 5 double-rope raps, 5 people, 5 hours. Hiked out from camp in the dark at 8pm reaching the South Lake trailhead at 11pm. Was home in LA by 3:30am. Another long day.....wouldn't have it any other way. | |
| Posted Sep 28, 2005 5:33 pm | ||
| Matt K | Route Climbed: Harrington Couloir Date Climbed: Sept. 25th, 2005 | |
| Simul-climbed with forjan and awagher on a beautiful day. Also on the route were MichaelJ and Pellucidwombat. The 5 of us rapped down together, which was a BAD idea. 5 raps with 5 people took 5 hours. | ||
| Posted Sep 28, 2005 4:48 pm | ||
| asmrz | Route Climbed: Central (Smrz) Couloir Date Climbed: Mid 90s | |
| Sometimes in mid to late nineties (96?) Gerry Cox invited me to climb the central couloir on Mt.Thompson. RJ Secor told Gerry that the central Couloir on the North face of Thompson was not climbed so Gerry told me, let''s go have a look at it. ( The couloir was first climbed in 1990 by John Moynier and a partner, we learned later). When we reached the Thompson Glacier, Gerry came down with terrible flu so I decided to have a look at the gully myself. I climbed the gully and the rock section in the middle (5.6-5.7?) and managed to get up it in about 2.5 hours. The problem was that the Thompson North Ridge descent with fresh snow on it looked anything but 3rd class. I didn't think I could down climb this so after some introspection I downclimbed the Harrington Couloir. Exciting...Gerry saw me coming down that gully and thought I was totally nuts, but he didn't know what the Thompson descent looked like.. Some years later, in his second edition, RJ Secor named the couloir after me, one of the honors I will never get over. Imagine to have your name on anything in the Sierra Nevada? Thanks Robert. | |
| Posted Apr 17, 2005 3:07 am | ||
| asmrz | Route Climbed: Moynier Couloir Date Climbed: October 01, 2000 | |
| Michael Gordon and I climbed the Moynier Couloir on good and solid alpine ice in October 2000. I found this gully to be as good (and steep) as the legendary Mendel Couloir Right with the short rock section even harder than Mendel. We soloed the first 4-5 pitches and roped about 2 pitches before the rock pitch. The climb was much easier than the descent. The N Ridge of Thompson proved to be much more interesting proposition, if you go down this way, follow the ridge way out till you see easier ground. We didn't and found ourselfes in tough ground. 3 hours up, 5 hours down. Great climbing, great gully, my hat's off to you Mr. Moynier to solo this on first ascent. | |
| Posted Apr 17, 2005 2:49 am | ||
| agorokhov | Route Climbed: SW Chute Date Climbed: June 5 2004 | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2004 2:08 pm | ||
| Bob Burd | Route Climbed: Southwest Face Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2003 | |
| With Matthew (below) and Michael. As matthew said, a slog for the most part. Trip Report | |
| Posted Jan 12, 2004 11:57 pm | ||
| Matthew Holliman | Route Climbed: SW Chute Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2003 | |
| Day 5 of the 2003 Sierra Challenge. Ugh, what a slog... I'm not planning on heading back to this one any time soon, even given the stellar summit views. Secor comments that the rock around here is "disagreeably loose," but that's really an understatement. There was a little fun class 3 in places, so as to try and avoid the sandy slopes, but even on that rock there was still loose crap everywhere. The best climbing was actually found on the buttress leading up towards Thompson-Powell Col from Sunset Lake--solid rock, easy, but quite fun. Babboon Lakes featured some beautiful wildflowers on the return--after reaching the summit, perhaps the highlight of the trip. | |
| Posted Aug 19, 2003 6:18 pm | ||
| asmrz | Route Climbed: Harrington Couloir downclimbed Date Climbed: October 1997 | |
| I downclimbed this Harrington Couloir in October 1997, after going up the Central (later named Smrz Couloir by RJ Secor) of the three couloirs visible in the Harrington Page picture. This Harrington Couloir has rather steep section at the top where some 200 feet of hard ice needed to be climbed. I faced in, with two tools to downclimb this steep section. I elected to downclimb this, because the regular route off Thompson via the North Ridge looked too difficult (to me) to downclimb solo, without rope, and with fresh snow covering the ground. Several years later, that North Ridge descent proved anything but class 3, especially if one follows the ambiguous decription in all the Climbing Guide Books. Better way is to follow the North Ridge at least 1/4 mile out, over 4th class terrain until easy WALKING gully can be taken down to the Thompson Glacier. If you start down too soon, you will get into difficult terrain and several steep raps. I would recommend this Harrington Couloir as a great ( one day RT from South Lake) training outing, if you know the way down. In mid August, this couloir might have hard neve in it. In October, it usually has fine, hard alpine ice. Enjoy! | |
| Posted Apr 23, 2003 4:57 pm | ||
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