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City of Rocks National Reserve Climber's Log
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junoiceclimberLearning Grounds  Sucess!

One of the best places to visit in the entire state and home to most of my rock excursions. Started my climbing career here in the mid 90s and get back about every 5 years for a visit. I love camping and climbing and not having anything else to worry about for a few days. Water, food, rock, spirit... and how far do you think I have to go to that porta-potty from here?
Posted Apr 17, 2009 2:47 pm

AJonesLoved it

A super cool place to go - spent a week there in the early 90s. I climbed:

Nipples & Clits, Bloody Fingers, New Toy, Intruding Dike, A Finer Niner, Something Sporting, Tennish Anyone?, Psycho Driller, Animal Cracker, Expect No Mercy, Pure Pleasure, Terror of Tiny Town, Tow-Away Zone, Just Another Pretty Face, Beauty and the Beast, Hammerhead, Funky Bolt, Thin Slice, Cairo, Delay of Game, Batwings Direct, Skyline, Scream Cheese, Holding Out for a Hero, New York in not the City, Bumble Takes a Tumble, Colossus, Loch ness Monster, Wheat Thin, Just Say Go, The Pygmies got Stoned, Heironimous Bosch, Just Say No, Rye Crisp, Loew Route (now closed), Straight Edge, Holidays in the Sun, Firewater, Quest for Fire, Tribal Boundaries, Reservations
Dynamo Hum, Heat Wave, Vibrator, Live Wire
Posted Mar 6, 2009 11:24 am

wyomtmanSolid  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2005

Incredible, some of the best granite I have ever been on, thanks George!
Posted Oct 31, 2008 5:56 pm

Dave SGreat place!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2008

Spent two days there for my first trip to the City. We lucked out with beautiful weather and few crowds and got in many great routes! Hope to get back for more!!!
Posted Jul 7, 2008 2:09 pm

LaMusaCity of Rock  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 31, 2008

This was my first time climbing and it was a lot of fun. Lot's of different ability levels.
Posted Jun 26, 2008 7:07 pm

LudditeLived in...

the back of a truck here when I was younger, before it cost $50 for a weekend.
Posted May 30, 2008 1:24 am

tpSo Many Routes So Little Time  Sucess!

Lots of good climbing. I'm trying to find when I can make my next trip there.
Posted May 14, 2008 9:38 am

LubosYuppie  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 19, 2007

Many times and I am looking forward for the next season. Good report and Thanks for attaching my picture.
Posted Jan 3, 2008 10:46 pm

d_shorbbeautiful year round

many times, many climbs. an easy visit when i lived in SLC and Driggs. this place is gorgeous anytime of year too. I've even snowboarded here.
favs:
5.7 adolescent homosapien
dike
raindance
cruel shoes
wheat thin
jackson's thumb
5.8 skyline
lost arrow regular
catwalk
rye crisp
carol's crack
5.9 sensimilia
5.10a bloody fingers
some others i'll have to look up.
Posted Oct 21, 2007 9:01 pm

madjohnboFun but dusty  Sucess!

City of Rocks is a fun place to spend a weekend. There are climbs for everyone. I've climbed Too Much Fun, a one pitch route that is 150 feet high. That made for some nasty rope drag, but a fun climb. Theater of Shadows is a great intro to multi-pitch.
Posted Sep 4, 2007 10:58 am

reboylesWay back in the good old days  Sucess!

I first visited the "City" in '73 and came back later in the mid 70s and did several of the now classic routes. We didn't use bolts back then thus we left no trace of ever having climbed there. It made for some real interesting runouts, yes indeed.
Posted Aug 31, 2007 1:10 pm

skunk apeYee Haw!  Sucess!

Hot days and crowded weekends great times.
Posted Feb 26, 2007 11:40 pm

stolenjCity of Rocks Rally  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2006

Rallied down to COR for a nine-day climbing stint. Was impressed with the whole area, from the well-maintained trail system, to the granite. Side tripped to Castle Rocks one day but spent the majority of the time around Parking Lot, Bath Rock and Elephant. Low-key and uncrowded the COR definitely has a lot to offer as a premiere cragging area.
Posted Oct 10, 2006 4:08 am

LubosClimbing in "the city"  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2006

A great place to climb. I was there for the first time this year and hope to make it to a total of three visits before the winter.
Posted Oct 9, 2006 3:36 am

madsjimSeveral Routes  Sucess!

I have been to the city 3 times and successfully climbed the popular multi pitch routes. I am not a hardcore rock climber and the routes here are perfect for those that just want to get out and
have a good time without the mental anguish of climbing out of your ability.
Posted Aug 8, 2006 12:08 am

hkutukCity of Rocks Climbing

June 20-21, 2006
First trip to the City with Martin, Radek and Shirley, loads of fun climbing a variety of routes. Crowded place though, had to camp in the BLM area.
Colombian Crack (5.7) Pictures of it looked so cool, but turned out to be more a flaring groove
Just Say No (5.9) Nicely bolted face, while waiting for Rye Crisp.
Intruding Dike (5.7) Fun easy crack, rain made for a quick climb
Private Idaho (5.9) Nice stemming all the way with the crux high, where the gear would get in your way to get a good hand jam
Bloody Fingers (5.10a) Quality route, lower jams were hard, higher up the crack gets thin and use face holds
Chimney (5.6) Definitely not a 6, must be a typo, easier for smaller folks probably
Animal Cracker (5.10a) Runout start on very sharp rock and flakes, little grunty offwidth but the roof move is not so bad. Second pitch crack is disappointing as it turns into a groove.
Posted Jul 24, 2006 2:27 am

Martin CashOne Weekend  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 21, 2006

Visited the City of Rocks for the first time this past weekend with Radek, Shirley, and Haydar. Had a nice time.

Colombian Crack - 5.7 - This is a 4 star route? Nasty flared groove with awkward climbing and bolts next to the crack where gear fits perfectly. 1 or 2 stars is more like it.

Sport climb left of Rye Crisp - 5.9 - Fun sustained face climbing with sparse pro (bolts every 20 feet or so). Very nice.

Intruding Dike - 5.7 - Fun fingercrack. Haydar's lead.

Private Idaho - 5.9 - Pretty good face climb with a crack for pro. More of a stemming route than a crack climb. Shirley's lead.

Bloody Fingers - 5.10A - Excellent fingers to hands crack. Really enjoyed the upper half. Radek's lead.

Chimney - ? - I lead a long flared chimney right of Bloody Fingers that was really nice. Sustained 8+ chimneying for 100 foot with pro sometimes 30 feet apart. Very fun.

Tried to lead Animal Cracker but slipped and cut my finger open on the sharp rock.

A fun outing.
Posted May 22, 2006 8:27 pm

rpcCouple O' Visits

Routes climbed:
2009 Spring Weekend Outing:
Fred Rasmussen (5.8). Short. Decent.
Tide Country (5.10a). Very fun - soft for the grade IMHO.
Lost Pioneers (5.10a). Not much to look at but climbs just fiiine.
Interceptor (5.11a)...fell off at the top...steeeep.
Too Much Fun (5.8 ...or 5.8 A0 if you're short :). Maybe too hyped up but fun enough.
New York Is Not The City (5.10a). Nice easy sport pitch.
2008 Spring Weekend Outing:
Z-Cracks (5.9). Short but quite good.
Snakes & Ladders (5.9). Short but quite good; Shirley led.
Double Cracks (5.10a). Very good stuff! Start is the crux, fun cruise higher.
Batwings (5.8). Shirley's lead. Spicy I thought when I followed on TR, esp. if you do not traverse over to the direct and clip its bolt...
Colombian Crack (5.7). Excellent 5.7 crack!
Rye Crisp (5.8). Second time up this classic, this time led by Shirley.
Carol's Crack (5.8). Nice enough, Shirley led.
Thin Slice (5.10a). So much more fun this time around when I was on TR :) Shirley's great lead.
2006 Two Weekends, incl. outing with Haydar and Martin:
Animal Cracker (5.10a). Great 2 pitch line! Pitch 1 was as good as Bloody Fingers IMHO. Shirley led pitch 2.
Private Idaho (5.9, Shirley's lead). Fun! Exciting lead on lower half on thin stuff.
Bloody Fingers (5.10a). One of best routes at City so far. Top notch.
Intruding Dike (5.7, Shirley's lead). OK route, better near top.
Wheat Thin (5.7, Shirley's lead). Still only OK.
Rye Crisp (5.8). Very fun!
Thin Slice (5.10a). Gym-like face moves with thin finger crack for pro. 4-stars is over-rating it IMHO.
Tow Away Zone (5.10a). Nice route but not very sustained.
Skyline (5.8, Shirley's lead). Nice position and OK climbing (3-stars IMHO.
2005 Quick Drive By:
Funky Bolt (5.9). Very nice route. 3-star rating is accurate.
2002 - 2003 (Couple visits including one weekend outing with Mark and Natasha D. and one with Jeff and Jay):
Cruel Shoes (5.7, swapped leads).
Hough's Crack (5.7).
Norma's Book (5.6, Shirley's lead).
The Classic Route (Lost Arrow Spire) (5.7). Top notch route at the grade.
Theater of Shadows (5.7). Bolt ladder.
Wheat Thin (5.7).
Intruding Dike (5.7).
First Lead (5.6, Shirley's lead).
Delay of Game (5.8 bolts).
Unnamed 5.7 (backside of Window Rock, Shirley's lead).
Unknown name (a 5.4 on parking lot side of Bath Rock).
Posted May 22, 2006 6:05 pm

mountaingazelleOne of my favorite places Date Climbed: 1994, many other times  Sucess!

This is where I learned to rock climb. I visited City of Rocks when I was young and my first route was up Norma's Book on Parking Lot Rock. I climbed it without rock climbing shoes because I didn't own a pair at the time.

Other places I like include: Upper and Lower Breadloaves, Parking Lot Rock Area, Lookout Rock, Bumblie Wall, Stripe Rock, and Jackson's Thumb.
Posted May 3, 2006 5:26 pm

jhalzRoute Climbed: Many Date Climbed: May 26-29 2005

Routes Climbed:



Fred Rasmussen (5.8 Crack) Wish it were longer

Catwalk (5.8 Crack/Face) Fun, but wonders

Carol's Crack (5.8+ Crack) Parallel Cracks

Rye Crisp (5.8+ Flake) Fun Flake Climbing. A City Classic

Wheat Thin (5.6 Flake/Crack)

Intruding Dike (5.7 Crack) Great Route

Pure Pleasure (5.6 Crack) unmotivating

Pocket Rocket (5.9 Crack/Face/Seam)

Theatre Of Shadows (5.7 Face)Bolt Ladder

Classic Route (5.7) Not hard climbing but fun.

Indiscretion (5.9) Thin gear, but short

Deeze Guys (5.10a Pockets/Friction) Super pumpy, but fun

Batwings (5.8) Crack/Face

Funky Bolt(5.9) Tough Start, but fun
Posted Jun 1, 2005 5:30 pm

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