| The first Romanian ascent of G1 and also the first alpine style ascent of an eight thousander by a Romanian. Alex Gavan summited at around 4,30 pm after 14 hours continuous ascent from Camp 3 at 7000m.(No supplementary oxygen used, no sherpa support). On summit day we've made a variant of the Japanese Culoir route climbing a rocky ridge on the left, due to the increased avalanche danger. Our team consisted in 4 climbers, all reaching the summit, in this order, within 30 minutes between the first and the last: Pawel Mihalski (Polonia, he also climbed Cho Oyu), Mehdi Efetihmar (Iran, first Iranian ascent of Gasherbrum 1; he also climbed Dhaulagiri), Jordi Jill (Spania), Alex Gavan (Romania). The official expedition page, dispatches, photos and the summit video can be foud at http://gasherbrum.cloudclimbing.ro/ |
The Karakoram > Gasherbrum I > Climber's Log