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Rjavina Climber's Log
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megla Ensorcelled Gully, 2nd repeat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2003

Borut Kantuser, Stefan Mlinaric

Zakleta grapa (ensorcelled gully) is in the Macesnovec N face, the last tooth of the Saw.
As seen from the town of Mojstrana (Sava valley), the ridge formed by Rjavina, Luknja pec, Dimniki and Macesnovec (far to close) looks like a saw.

Winter Ascents tells us (along with a description and a topo):
Zakleta grapa
IV/3, 880m (530 + 350m), 12 h.
(80°), 75°/55°, 30°-50°, UIAA 6/A2
FA: Bojan Pockar, Bojan Pograjc and Jernej Stritih, Dec 27, 1986
1st repeat: Tadej Golob, Franc Kastelic
Gear: pitons of different types, 1 profile piton, friends, 2X 50m rope
Posted Oct 28, 2009 11:44 am

Attila the HunRjavina - Western Route
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2007

I walked up the western side, coming from Dom Valentina Stanica. Cracking views down towards the Kot and Krma valleys and good views back towards Triglav also. There were close to 40 people on the Kredarica ridge of Triglav when I checked it through the zoom on my camera, but I didn't meet anyone up here. Thunder, when I arrived on top, resulted in a hasty retreat!
Posted Jul 28, 2007 8:36 am

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