My girlfriend and I learned to lead in the Gunks over the past 2 years. We still don't own any active pro (except for tri-cams when placed as such), and hope this translates into solid leading skills as we move out of the area this month and begin exploring other crags.
The gunks is where I go to just climb, The routes are excellent and numerous and the crowd is great! it is a small community and a sweet crag! Most of the routes are stout and sustained!
I've pretty much lived the last 7 years of my life in the Gunks, separated by trips to other ranges and crags. I've led more than 200 routes, mostly onsight, and can be found there most weekends between April and November. Favorite routes are too numerous to list. See my personal website for a complete list of routes I've climbed in the Gunks.
Went to the Gunks and Rumney on an annual climbing trip with a group of 5 buddies. We had a blast and got on some REALLY classic routes. A guy got bit by a copperhead next to us as we were getting on High Exposure - poor b@stard...
Route Climbed: Three Pines/Horseman/Gelsa Date Climbed: September 1972
These were my first rock climbs. I was led up by John Guibord, who introduced me to this sport which would alter the course of my life in a big way. I climbed in the Gunks until '81 when I moved to California.
Favorite spot in the gunks is Verkeerderkill Falls. Also Lost Lake (or is it lone lake)... Camped illegally once on the Smiley preserve, cz they got the best land.
Learned climbing here in the mid '70's, mostly 5.4-5.7 routes, with Shockley's Ceiling probably the best known. I remember a great crowd, great rock, plenty of exposure, fun overhangs, scary traverses, and very comfortable belay ledges.