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Charlotte Dome Climber's Log
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BlackmouthSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009

Climbed the South Face with Sper Forjan. We camped at the 10,140' camp and had no problems finding it. Great spot with clean water. Long approach. We made it a 2 day trip because I had to work on the third day. On day 2 we climbed, packed up and hiked out to the cars for a 21 hour day. I was so tired I ended up calling in sick anyway. A three day trip would have been more enjoyable, but it was still an unforgettable trip.
Posted Sep 17, 2009 12:51 pm

granjeroSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2007

Brilliant climb. Worth every step to get there (from Onion Valley). Stunning views, exposure, and flawless rock. Great summit to watch the sun set.
Posted Sep 8, 2009 6:37 pm

DebSomeone Stole My Beer!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Not sure what kind of weather to expect - we ended up with perfect climbing weather, some wind halfway up but enjoyed this peak immensely! Definitely one of my favorites in the Sierra so far, this includes the descent. Very pleasant. Great camping as well and we made some new little friends. :) Great choice Darling! XXOO
OK, who swiped one of my beers from the bear box in Onion Valley?!
Posted Aug 9, 2009 10:15 pm

Dave DalyThe South Face (5.8).....A True Classic!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Deb and I came in over from Onion Valley with a 6:45AM start on Aug. 6th. Had no problems finding the campsite McNamara describes in ST guidbook. Sweet site with really cool spring!(approx. 9980'). Met Les and Scotty along the way, who were doing the route the next day too. Great guys!....even if they were east coasters (just teasing Les...HA!). Found the start with no problems and launched into it. We simul-climbed the first 5 pitches before pitching it out at #6 (the Slot Pitch). Great climbing throughout the whole way...the granite was SUPERB! We found ourselves a little confused with the final pitch, since the ST topo shows an initial right facing corner slightly above a dead tree. Didn't see anything above resembling such....since there was a corner above that was LEFT facing! Picked an obvious right facing crack about 20 yards left of the dead tree, going up a steep golden slab section. Ended up petering out on ticklish slab to a headwall. We both felt that line sized up to about 5.9 before topping out. Oh, well. Fantastic climb with a fantastic partner!!
Posted Aug 9, 2009 9:35 pm

Digglersouth face- most excellent!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Climbed with Faith. Approach from Onion Valley was fine (albeit loooong) until it got dark- bushwhacking through fields of manzanita trying to find the campsite was 'interesting' after we lost the trail (this probably cost us an extra hour or 2). Climb itself was one of the best I've done! Standing at the base, one would never think that a 5.8 (I would call it .8, not .7) route takes one to the top of this magnificent formation! Pretty much every pitch had great rock & climbing. The abundance of chicken heads was truly remarkable. Took me awhile to work up the gumption to get through the runout section, but once committed it went smoothly. We had the climb to ourselves the whole day! Hike back out was a lot smoother than the approach. A true classic.
Posted Aug 4, 2009 1:27 pm

brucelacroixSouth Face route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2009

Definately in my top 50 climbs.
Posted Jul 3, 2009 8:25 am

ckerthNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009

Left the Bubbs Creek Trail from its junction with Charlotte Creek. A use trail can be found just outside of the dense shrubs lining the North side of Charlotte Creek. Once out of the brush the route was mainly class 2/3 as we contoured around to the North side. The route steepens just before the summit with class 3 moves over large blocks. Be careful if the route is wet. It started to rain as we descended and the large smooth slabs became slippery.
Posted Jun 17, 2009 6:57 pm

baumann_patfrom the east side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2008

I hiked in over Kearsarge Pass and camped at Charlotte Lake on Saturday night. The high quality rock made for very complaisant climbing. I found some good hand cracks, chimneys and a lot of face climbing along the way.
Posted Sep 15, 2008 8:46 pm

RomainCharlotte Dome South Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2008

With René Renteria. This is the mother of all classic climbs - every single pitch is outstanding. It took us 8 hours to climb the route. Approached from the East.
Posted Sep 15, 2008 12:29 pm

travelin_lightSouth Face Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2008

First summit with my wife Joanna. Great route but keep a close eye on the weather. Lots of rock back there!
Posted Sep 3, 2008 1:30 pm

Shirley LamRoute Climbed: South Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008

Sierra Traverse w. Charlotte Dome in 2 days. Started from Roads End in King's Canyon, hiked up Bubb's Creek and climbed the South Face on Saturday. On Sunday, we hiked out through Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley. While at Kearsarge Pass, we witnessed an awesome afternoon thunderstorm brewing to the South. We were a little disappointed we didn't get showered to cool down and remove a little of our stink ;)
Posted Aug 26, 2008 5:02 pm

Tom FralichSouth Face (III 5.8)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008

Mary and I climbed this as a 3-day trip from Onion Valley. We hiked in on day 1 over Kearsarge Pass and got to the great campsites indicated in SuperTopo just before 8PM. Up the next morning and out of camp at 7AM, climbing at 8AM. We climbed the route in 11 pitches, topping out just after 3PM. The Slot (pitch 6) had some fantastic climbing, as did the run-out face pitch (actually not that run-out). The Furrows was a great finish, with steep juggy climbing and then an easy rope-length to a great snack ledge. We did the descent in a little over an hour and were back in camp by 5PM. Hiked out the next morning over Kearsarge Pass in about 7 hours to the car. Definitely a great climb in a spectacular setting, with a long approach through beautiful terrain.
Posted Aug 21, 2008 2:31 am

plumeSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2007

A climb that lives up to its classic status. That is, once you get past the first four pitches. Camped in a meadow along Bubbs Creek. watch out for a rusty-colored fearless bear. The poor thing chomped on a fuel canister which exploded in its mouth.
Posted Jun 9, 2007 10:31 pm

FlexS Face 2003  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2003

B-day climb.
Posted Dec 20, 2006 6:00 am

old5tenRoute Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Labor Day 1997  Sucess!

First date with the Gazelle: we spent the night about 8 pitches up on the route, hanging off an anchor I constructed by feeling my way in the dark. For good measure the next day had rain and snow for us.
Posted Jan 9, 2006 4:29 am

climbjtreeRoute Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: October 7, 2005  Sucess!
Beautiful approach, awesome route!!

Off the couch Socal Shine.

Bring a pen!!
Posted Nov 22, 2005 1:17 am

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: S. Face  Sucess!

Outstanding route
Posted Oct 16, 2005 12:31 pm

KerstinRoute Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: June 25, 1985  Sucess!

My first backcountry climb at age 17. The bushwhack approach from Bubbs Creek was tedious but worth it. I'll never forget the pristine granite and all those chickenheads! I don't know if we were initially on-route because I remember the first pitch being a chimney.



A wonderful route!
Posted Sep 19, 2005 12:48 am

jasperwoodRoute Climbed: South face Date Climbed: 08/28/05  Sucess!

James Demalignon and myself reached the summit in the early afternoon, after a very enjoyable climb up the south face. Anyone reading this that plans to climb Charlotte dome; please take a new pen for the summit log!
Posted Sep 2, 2005 12:46 am

MaeganRoute Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: July 2, 2005  Sucess!
What a fantastic climb. We thought that since it was a holiday weekend, the place would be crazy, but we ended up having the whole rock to ourselves. We hiked in from the West on Friday and then climbed and hiked out on Saturday. The descent back to camp wrecked us and it would have been nice stay at camp that night, but I think a few million mosquitos hatched while we were climbing and we had to get out of there as fast as we could (we were tentless in an effort to be "fast and light").
Posted Jul 12, 2005 11:02 pm

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