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Royal Arches Climber's Log
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haishanRoyal Arches  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2009

Climbed with Bill... very crowded, but made good time and got down NDG in broad daylight. This route is simply awesome.
Posted Oct 12, 2009 6:41 pm

Bill KishRoyal Arches  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2009

Swapped leads with Patrick and descended the NDG. An awesome day with perfect weather!
Posted Oct 12, 2009 1:39 am

tombcroninRoyal Arches  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2009

Rappelled with twin 60m ropes.
Posted Oct 5, 2009 6:30 pm

Vinnycanada day with Michael  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006

great times with Michael aus Deutschland- he snuck a couple king cans up and produced them at top. plans to finish with crown jewel after the arches were changed after our food was grabbed by opportunistic rodents. descent was pretty gnarly.
awesome route!
Posted Jul 2, 2009 7:23 pm

Tom FralichSuper Slide  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2008

Super Slide (II 5.9, 5 pitches) -- October 10, 2008 -- Mary and I climbed this route on a cold, windy day in October. Mary wore a down jacket for the entire climb. The second pitch was nice, following a thin crack to a thin smeary face to a perfect splitter. The top three pitches were great with increasingly difficult climbing. The final crack was stellar, but more like thin hands than wide fingers for me.
Posted Oct 10, 2008 11:00 pm

Bob BurdRoyal Arches / North Dome Gully  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2008

An enjoyable and full day with Michael Golden. Trip Report
Posted Jul 28, 2008 12:30 am

snowflakeMay 1991  Sucess!

Ended up bivying at top of North Dome gully - spent the rest of the summer learning to lead faster.
Posted May 8, 2008 3:49 pm

jmcnice weather
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2007

Lead every pitch, we moved fast. We were the first ones up in the morning. No one would have caught up except we made the mistake of taking only one rope. The raps took forever! Some guys with two ropes passed us up near the last rap.
Posted Dec 22, 2007 8:55 am

ZzyzxRoyal Arches  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 6, 2007
Climbed with Dirk (Diggler). It was a COLD morning, so we didn't start until 10 AM. Took us 10 hours to climb it an get back down. It was the most crowded I've seen it (climbed twice before), which delayed us quite a bit. On one of the rappels the rope got stuck and Dirk climbed to retrieve it. Over all it was a fun climb and Dirk is a great climbing partner.
Posted Oct 26, 2007 1:39 am

forjanEpic descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 6, 2007

Climbed Royal Arches w/ Brad Mastros. The climb itself went fine; we encountered like 5 other parties on the route including Kris & Dirk from SP. We had kinda of a late start; got off-route like twice and did a friction run-out variation on pitch 5. We moved slow and so we topped out at ~ 6:00pm.....just before dark. Since we didn't bring a 2nd rope for the rappel descent and we heard horror stories on the treacherous "North Dome gully" descent (known for it share of accidents), we opted to hike up ~ 1500 feet and hopefully find the North Dome trail back down through Yosemite Falls and down to the Valley. A very long, long way out. It was dark & too cold to bivy with the clothes we brought. Dehydration was kicking in and I started to staggered. Luckly, we found a creek to replenish with water. After trashing for nearly 4 hrs in the dark , we finally found the North Dome trail at 10:54pm. We thought we're home-free. Not! We lost the trail by the granite slabs near Yosemite Point. It was now even colder & windy! We searched for what it seemed like an hour. Finally, found it and started down. We're both exhausted (ran out of food and had limited water from the creek). We took several breaks on the way down. At approx 4:30am we staggered onto Brad's car parked at the Ahwahee Hotel parking lot. We collapsed into our tent just before 5:00am (we had been out 19 hours on the go).
Posted Oct 8, 2007 7:53 pm

cluckRoyal Arches  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 17, 2007

Wow. What great fun. 1st long climb in the Valley two days after a run up Snake Dike on 1/2 dome. 1st pitch chimney was very hard with a too large pack and polished walls. What a grunt. A0 swing was fun. No problem with water on traverse. 6.5 hrs up moving at a moderate pace. We took the low traverse over to the descent gully that was more unnerving than the climb.
Posted May 20, 2007 3:57 pm

mow10Twice so far  Sucess!

First time for a friend and I, 6 hours up, 4 down N Dome gully. Grueling. Second time, following a buddy who did it like 15 times before, we were up in 2 and rapped down in 1! A late start and still back in time for lunch. I love it.
Posted Mar 17, 2007 7:17 am

SharonRotten Log  Sucess!

I've climbed this at least twice since 1991. Lurid details in journal; will update later. BTW, Chris Kopczynski has the top of the Rotten Log on his home office desk in Spokane: it tumbled down right in front of him & Roskelly some years ago. Chris retrieved it at the Arches' bottom after they topped out.
Posted Dec 22, 2006 4:31 am

Cookie Addicta snake at the rap rings  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2006

A buddy and I did the route in fine weather in 8 hours. There was a balack and white California Kingsnake near the top rap rings that scared the crap out of me as I was 70 from my last piece. A great day out though.
Posted Jul 20, 2006 11:10 pm

thedusRoyal Arches Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2005

Four of us climbed as two rope teams. Jason and his dad, Larry, led the way, and Karissa and I followed. Great climb on a great day, even if my hands were feeling abused still from following Jason up The Cookie, Right two days before. We rapped instead of thrashing our way down the NDG.
Posted Jun 4, 2006 7:29 pm

RileywynaRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: May 1999  Sucess!

My first long route in Yosemite. A great day and we made real good time untill taking a break just below the now fallen rotten log traverse. After this we got behind schedule. With 3 people rapping and getting lost somewhere over by Devils bathtub we didn't get back till after dark.

Climbed wth my main climbing partner Thomas French and his brother David
Posted Dec 19, 2005 7:42 am

DigglerRoute Climbed: well, you know Date Climbed: 16 October, 2005

6 October, '7
This time with Kris. Fun blast up. This time got a LITTLE earlier start (10.04 or so) & didn't make any wrong turns on the way. Weather was great & views & climbing were of course wonderful. Ran into Miguel on the way up. Got down at 20.04. Great time with a good friend & partner.

16 October, '5
Climbed with Gordon. A 130-some mile drive from Strawberry the night before, little sleep, needing to get a nut tool, and difficulties finding the start shot down our attempt to get an early start.



Started the first pitch at 10.45. After the 1st pitch R-hand chimney variation in ST, went up what seemed to be a little-climbed (if at all) unprotected 5.5 groove that took us to the main ledge. After the prominent ledge system following the pendulum, took the wrong dihedral- dirty, mungy, marginally protected, 5.7+, to a ledge. It was here that Gordon discerned we needed to go down to get back on track. Reluctantly & out of necessity, I agreed. Rappelling off of that manzanita bush was perhaps the most thrilling part of the day (the only reassurance I took was that there were some old, natty slings that some other confused party used to rap' down off of when the bush was even smaller). Once back on track, we moved fairly quickly until the sun set. The topo somewhat inaccurate, it took us a while to determine the correct way to continue. Finally found the correct way to go & cruised from there. Was quite relieved to finally reach the first rappel anchor.



Despite the bolted rap' anchors, the darkness made for slow going (I'm so glad the moon was out!!). We made it down w/o incident, however, in the wee hours of the morn'.



Great day of climbing in unusually good weather (esp. at night!), with a good partner and amazing scenery. I'll be back to do this in one in a reasonable amount of time.
Posted Oct 18, 2005 4:46 pm

gordonyeRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: October 16-17, 2005  Sucess!

Followed Dirk in beautiful summer-like weather for my first rock climb inside Yosemite Valley, lasting about 18 hours, 5 of which on the rappell route. Full moon light helped tremendously since we got a late start and by night fall made it to pitch 11 (McNamara), where we got off route and had to rappell from a 2-ft tall manzanita bush (with much trepidation) to get back on route. The rope swing (aid) move was an interesting psychological twist, as were the long rappells (with two 50m ropes) in the cool, still night.



The views of the Valley in the moon light was astoundingly serene, especially from tiny rappell perches high above the valley on the huge, featureless, very steep face.
Posted Oct 17, 2005 7:18 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: several  Sucess!

Both with and without the log (man was that classic?) and free both times.
Posted Oct 16, 2005 2:25 pm

Dave DinnellRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: Sept. 1985  Sucess!

Climbed with John Pfeiffer, Russ Stein, and Russ Patton. A social climbing experience with a party of 4 but we moved surprisingly fast. Descended North Dome Gully and consumed mass quantities of beer.
Posted Sep 19, 2005 12:24 am

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