| Welcome to SP! - Sign-In | Register | ||
| | |
| MbPost.com -- It's SP for Mountain Biking! | ||
Cordillera Blanca - RANGE > Chopicalqui > Climber's Log|
|
|
| dwalters1 | SW Ridge  Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007 | |
| Great climb to acclimatize, with some good exposure across the bergschrund to the summit pyramid. Not as technically difficult as the guide book suggested, but there are some sections where pitching it out could be helpful (or prudent). Had a few issues with bottlenecks and guided groups/inexperienced climbers - made things a little more dangerous than i would have liked. | |
| Posted Oct 20, 2009 1:21 pm | ||
| MRoyer4 | SW Ridge Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2008 | |
| A long route to a high peak without much (if any) technical climbing. Great views of Huascaran and the rest of the Blanca. Conditions were very good, nice to find after reports of heavy snow and no prior ascents during the season. | |
| Posted Sep 30, 2009 5:34 pm | ||
| bledl | Normal route | |
| Reached the summit together with my peruvian friend Julver. The night before we brought a mexican couple down to basecamp because of sorroche, slept 2 hours & started the climb. Some sketchy climbing on the summit mushroom (around 80 degree) with bad protection. Rappeled on a snow bollard and descended to the low camp. Long but unforgetable day! | |
| Posted Sep 1, 2009 6:12 pm | ||
| deuder | South West Ridge Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2009 | |
| Amazing climb! It snowed every other day except for our summit day :) | |
| Posted Jul 7, 2009 1:55 pm | ||
| FlatheadJim | SW Ridge Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2006 | |
| Climbed with Peruvian guide, Willaim. | |
| Posted Jul 4, 2009 1:24 am | ||
| nattfodd | SW ridge Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009 | |
| Great climb, good snow conditions in the early morning. A couple of steep snow pitches and an exposed passage on the summit mushroom but nothing too bad. Day 1: trailhead (4200m) to Moraine camp (5000m), skipping BC. Pretty awful load carrying on a steep trail, maybe a porter would have been a good idea. 4h30 total. Day 2: Moraine camp (5000m) to High Camp (5600m). Glacier terrain but quite easy, unroped travel possible. Pretty grueling as I was still tired from the previous day. 4h instead of the 2/3 usually recommended. Day 3: High Camp (5600m) to Summit (6354m) and back to Moraine Camp. Left at 2am, summited at 9am along with two other parties. Snow was in good condition and we didn't see any ice at all. Tracks were already made from the past week. It took us forever to descend the technical parts at the top due to merging with the Columbian party, and 4 persons abseils are very slow. 7h to summit, 5h back to high camp, 45 minutes to moraine camp. Day 4: Moraine camp to BC (1h30) to trailhead (15 minutes) and taxi to Huaraz. | |
| Posted Jun 13, 2009 7:10 pm | ||
| tbacus | SW Ridge Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2007 | |
| Spent an extra day at the Moraine Camp to wait out weather. Summited from Moraine Camp and down in a day. long day... Climbed with Peter (see below, I'm one of the Toms..) and a couple of Brits we met at the Moraine camp. | |
| Posted Nov 27, 2008 1:39 pm | ||
| hhsilleck | Route climbed: SW ridge Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2007 | |
| Summited in a whiteout after a hurried ascent to avoid getting stuck away from Huaraz during the strike. Beautiful mountain and approach, wish we could have seen something from the summit though! With Derek, Oscar, and Carlos. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2008 6:25 pm | ||
| ClimberMan420 | summited? Date Climbed: May 16, 2007 | |
| Were first up for 2007 season according to guides, definetly no signs of others. Plodded steps through deep powder, luckily were well acclimatized from two months trekking and climbing. Made it to summit shoulder but could not climb final pitch, extreme snow wall, no ice, lots of crumbly snow. Hard one to swallow but went down safely to climb again. | |
| Posted Dec 12, 2007 1:18 am | ||
| gremlin | sw ridge Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2007 | |
| high point so far, super fun except for the guided cluster disaster ahead of us | |
| Posted Oct 24, 2007 1:22 am | ||
| mtnman455 | The SW Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2007 | |
| Climbed with T. Haines. After being a little confused about where high camp was supposed to be and placing the highest high camp ever on the normal route at 5950 m. we got to the summit in no time! Last 400 meters of the mountain are very interesting and included a short section of climbing over an overhanging serac! This route is not in the best condition and right now is probably the grade of D. We got to the summit, broke camp, and got all the way to the road in the same day. 12 hours total. | |
| Posted Aug 8, 2007 6:47 pm | ||
| pvalchev | SW ridge Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2007 | |
| Great outing with 3 Americans I met in Cebollapampa (John, Tom and Tom) day 1 - hike into moraine camp (sketchy getting water from glacier) day 2 - snow on and off all day, wait out bad weather in camp day 3 - wake up at midnight, 7-8 hours to top from moraine camp, return, pack up and descend all the way to base camp. cold and windy at the top, but not terrible. long day The weather was sketchy for the past 2 weeks and we seemed to have hit the first good window... surprisingly clear night! | |
| Posted Jun 29, 2007 2:03 pm | ||
| laureljarndt | alsmost there Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2005 | |
| Fifth Peak (and highest)iin two weeks and I ws pooped. Two many people as Huascaran and Alpamayo were shut down | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2006 9:16 pm | ||
| Tom Fralich | SW Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2006 | |
| Climbed with Dave Greenhouse in 4 hours from Col Camp at 18,500 ft. The route was in very good condition with well consolidated snow and no major crevasse issues. Traversing through the seracs at 20,000 ft was a bit scary, with lots of debris already on the ground. In total we spent 6 days on the mountain. Day 1...Trailhead (4200m) to Moraine Camp (5000m) Day 2...Carry to Col Camp (5600m), return to Moraine Camp Day 3...Move to Col Camp Day 4...Summit (6354m), return to Moraine Camp Day 5...Rest in Moraine Camp, an extra day in case of bad weather, illness Day 6...Moraine Camp to Trailhead and taxi to Huaraz Unfortunately, Dave suffered some reasonably bad frostbite to three of his fingers on summit day and had to return to the US after completing this climb. | |
| Posted Jul 13, 2006 10:27 pm | ||
| snocat | S/W Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1998 | |
| It was a long day. We started from morain camp at 16,860 in the dark and finished in the dark 15hrs. latter | |
| Posted Apr 14, 2006 4:39 pm | ||
| GlennMerrill | Route Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: July 21, 2005 | |
| Very enjoyable and interesting route. | |
| Posted Aug 8, 2005 12:37 am | ||
| soslaw | Route Climbed: South West Ridge Date Climbed: July 1, 2005 | |
| Summited with my Peruvian guide, Aldo on a gloriously clear and calm morning just after sunrise with the moon just above the summit. 65-70 degree 100 meter pitch above the bergschrund The panarama of the Cordillera Blanca was fantastic. Five minutes after we summited, Brad Johnson (author of Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca) summited with 2 clients. Spent an enjoyable 20 minutes on top. | |
| Posted Jul 5, 2005 5:44 pm | ||
| griebel | Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: August 15-22, 2002 | |
| Our old guidebook said, "Allow 3 days to return to the road." We packed enough food for 4 days, and it took us 7. Fortunately, we greatly overestimated how much fuel we would need, and this was a life saver. The NW ridge involved lots of scary, loose, honeycombed snow. I thought I was going to die in a few places, but the position and exposure are absolutely spectacular! Trip Report and more photos here: http://www.climbingdreams.net/life/2002/peru/ | |
| Posted Mar 22, 2005 7:09 pm | ||
| TodoVertical | Route Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: July 2000 | |
| After three days progresing in the clouds and under the storm, Ian, Iñaki and myself turned back due to lack of visibility and food at some point around 5.960 metres. Some other time !!! | |
| Posted Oct 9, 2004 4:33 pm | ||
| davidbruder | Route Climbed: sw-ridge Date Climbed: july 04 | |
| great climb with perfect view...did some variant and climed airy ridge to avoid avalanche-danger in upper section david bruder&niv scott | ||
| Posted Sep 12, 2004 11:24 pm | ||
|
