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Selkirk Range > Bugaboo Spire > Climber's Log|
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| fowweezer | NE Ridge  Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009 | |
| Climbed the NE Ridge with Brian from camp at Appleby Dome. The climb went quickly (9 pitches or so), but was excellent. The descent was almost more involved than the climb, going down the Kain Route and around Snowpatch and Son of Snowpatch to avoid the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col, with all of the recent rockfall. The best route we did in 6 days in the Bugs--a classic for good reason. | |
| Posted Aug 23, 2009 6:45 pm | ||
| dunsum | NE Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009 | |
| Climbed the NE Ridge with Brenton Peterson on a gloriously overcast, chilly, and varyingly-windy day! Superb!!!! | |
| Posted Aug 22, 2009 6:55 pm | ||
| bfrench | Bugaboo Spire | |
| Amazing. | |
| Posted Apr 30, 2009 10:17 pm | ||
| alejandro | On the Kain Route Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008 | |
| It's definitely a climb I will remember. First, you think it's a piece of cake, then you're sweating on the Gendarme trying to get an anchor out of a crack while your calves are burning. It was quite an accomplishment! Go for it! | |
| Posted Oct 18, 2008 9:04 pm | ||
| JanG | South East Ridge (Kain route) Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008 | |
| This is one of the most memorable climbs that I ever did. The most difficult moves are in the same league as the crux pitches on Mt Whitney (East Face or Buttress), Grand Teton (Upper Exum Ridge) or Matterhorn (Hornli Ridge). I am specifically referring to successfully climbing the very exposed Gendarme close to the summit. Fortunately for me (and for my sons Christoph & Alexander), at that juncture we were greatly helped by Geoff and Luke, the guides provided to us by Canadian Mountain Holidays. The view from the top is absolutely unforgettable! | |
| Posted Aug 26, 2008 5:05 pm | ||
| GCutforth | Kain Route | |
| Great day out. A bit of a grovelling start, but the top few rope lengths were amazing. Working the gendarme going up and down was the highlight. Funny story as my climbing partner that day had a cannister of cayenne pepper open in his pants pocket enroute. Hence the birth of my man Chili Pepper Jim. | |
| Posted Nov 30, 2007 1:49 am | ||
| AJones | Northeast Ridge & Kain Route Date Climbed: Aug 8, 1996 | |
| We climbed the Kain Route first, and then the Northeast ridge a couple of days later. This is helpful, as then you know the descent for the Northeast Ridge. We did both routes in stellar weather and had a great time. I did lose my helmut on the descent (took it off to rest, forgot to put it back on) | |
| Posted Nov 10, 2007 9:49 pm | ||
| MtnMagic | three times | |
| Climbed this peak three times. Twice via the NE ridge (2004 and 2006) and once via the Kain route (2005). Although the NE ridge is the better route, the Kain is definitely a classic alpine ridge. Plus the Kain step does get the heart going for a few seconds there! | |
| Posted Oct 12, 2007 4:58 pm | ||
| agreenstreet | NE Ridge 8-30-2007 | |
| Climbed the NE ridge. Apparently we are a bit slow as it took us 21 hours hut to hut. But we also had to rap the NE ridge with one single rope as the slabs over to the Kain Route were covered in ice and snow. We had already had enough fun with snow in the chimneys on the NE ridge. Loved the finger crack pitches, the chimneys were a bit awkward, but one of the best climbs I have ever been on. It was crazy looking back up at the route from the Kain Hut and thinking that we had climbed that ridge. Truly awe-inspiring! | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2007 3:53 am | ||
| travelin_light | NE Ridge | |
| sweet route. | |
| Posted Feb 14, 2007 6:28 am | ||
| tphubbard | Kain Route | |
| Climbed Kain route with my freind Ad from Holland. Superb climbing in excellent weather. A guided team behind us. | |
| Posted Jan 28, 2007 3:39 pm | ||
| Dow Williams | Classic... Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2006 | |
| The NE Ridge with CClaude, Pvalchev on August 25, 2006. These Bugaboo Spires are classic climbs for good reason, much better rock than we are used to in the Rockies. We converted 12 pitches into 9 and divided up the lead in groups of three. Do your damndest to carry light packs. You will thank yourself many times, particularly on the summit traverse. Hell, if I did it again, I would carry tennis shoes and attach mini crampons to those for the glacier travel, including descending the col, which no doubt would suck, but be worth it. To much weight in our packs for such a long rock day. | |
| Posted Sep 21, 2006 8:18 pm | ||
| Oznid | NE Ridge is a classic Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2006 | |
| I underestimated this climb! But, it's truly a classic. I did not underestimate the descent. Everyone talked about how hard it was. I guess that prepared me - thought it was pretty easy. The view of the route from the base is jaw-dropping! Heck, all the views are. | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2006 3:49 am | ||
| pvalchev | NE ridge Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2006 | |
| An enjoyable day with Dow and CClaude. The traverse and descent are not straightforward which must be why so many people get benighted on the mountain - it's a long way. The Snowpatch/Bugaboo col is ugly as of summer 2006! | |
| Posted Aug 29, 2006 5:36 pm | ||
| ElCapitanKoolAid | In 1992 first trip | |
| My first rock climb outside Mexico. I loved the mountains. | |
| Posted May 22, 2006 3:51 am | ||
| Rileywyna | Route Climbed: NE ridge Date Climbed: Aug 98 | |
| Got stormed off the bottom of the ridge. Need to go back there hopefully this summer. | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2005 5:37 am | ||
| Derek Franzen | Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 1983 | |
| With E Sandbo, P Jacobowski & B Brown. One of the best rock climbs I've ever done. Excellent granite and wonderful route in a fantastic setting. This is a must do climb! | |
| Posted Apr 26, 2005 10:50 am | ||
| Chinese Rock | Route Climbed: Kain Route/South Ridge Date Climbed: July 2002 | |
| I climbed this outstanding route with Graham Johnson. It is humbling to imagine Conrad Kain climbing the gendarme pitch back in 1916 in cork-sole boots. We menaged to gett our rope stuck on the first rappel. There were lots of people on the route, which made the going very slow. All things considered, this is a great route of historic importance on very high quality granite. | |
| Posted Feb 24, 2005 2:32 am | ||
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