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Mount Ushba Climber's Log
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JelenaRock

Hit of rock. No summit.
Posted Aug 2, 2008 3:15 am

alexclimbRoute Climbed: Normal (North Ushba) Date Climbed: 26 June, 2005

With two clients climbed until the beginning of the Crest and decided not to go further because of the very dangerous snow conditions. Snow was deep and soft, no possible ways to organize secure belaying. Great snow cornices to the South side. The Ushba icefall was quite easy but two days before us there happened gigantic avalanche which begun just in the upper seracs and covered all the icefall to the glacier at its beginning
Posted Jul 26, 2005 11:02 am

cristakheRoute Climbed: normal route, north ushba Date Climbed: 15 july 2004  Sucess!

I have climbed this peak in 2004 with my friend Tori (both of us from Romania) and I have to say that if you are lucky (with snow conditions) this route is nice ice climbing route. If you go in Caucasus and you are fit enough it`s a shame to not try this peak.

In Schelda valley we have meet Alex and I have to say that is a nice person and if you need a guide in the area contact him.
Posted May 5, 2005 9:03 am

alexclimbRoute Climbed: Gabriel Khergiani route, ED, South Ushba Date Climbed: 2002, 10 August  Sucess!

In 2002 I climbed with my Georgian friends the South Ushba and we fastened to a granite teeth on the top the metal plate which was dedicated to 70th birthday of Mikhail Khergiani - famous Georgian climber and national hero of Georia who has died in Italian Alps in 1969.
Posted Apr 25, 2005 10:16 pm

alexclimbRoute Climbed: Normal, North Summit Date Climbed: 1st July 2004  Sucess!

Very difficult weather conditions (strong wind, snowstorm, lack of visibility). Summit crest was very bad, X-type carnices. On this part of the route five climbers from St. Petersburg have died one month after our climb... Bodies were not found
Posted Apr 22, 2005 11:22 am

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