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Cordillera Real (Bolivia) > Ancohuma (Jankhouma, Janq'uma) > Climber's Log|
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| bdynkin | Summited with AlexeyD via Northwest Ridge  Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2007 | |
| Summited after 4 days from Sorata. Glacier below high camp (5700) was broken and looked "interesting" but proved easy. Route had steeper sections (55-deg max?) but not difficult technically. Summit huge and flat. | ||
| Posted Oct 8, 2009 12:50 pm | ||
| bledl | west ridge | |
| Climbed alpine style from Sorata (4 long days). Reached the summit with Martin Herzig & the Wunderlich brothers. It was a great route, technically easy but exposed. New altitude record for all of us! | |
| Posted Sep 1, 2009 6:34 pm | ||
| Gido | global warming Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009 | |
| Failed to reach the summit this summer. Went up the normal route via Laguna Glaciar with René Escobar (Bol). During our way up we had met two other parties who weren't succesfull as well because of a combination of bad weather and glacier conditions. We encountered the same, the glacier was totally messed up. I knew it was very crevassed but this year it was even more, quite a lot of snowbridges as well, difficult route finding also because of the fairly amount of snow that had been fallen the weeks before. We went up quite high, but things became too risky for us. Anyway beautiful mountain, taking the global warming into account, i think this one won't become the straightforward mountain it used to be, for a long while.... | |
| Posted Aug 30, 2009 4:04 pm | ||
| AlexeyD | my highest peak Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2007 | |
| Summitted via the Northwest Ridge after making high camp around 5700 m. FYI the description of that route in the Yossi Brain guidebook is BS - there is nothing remotely close to 65-degree sections, it is not a technically difficult climb, just long and with occasional steep sections but no more than 50 degrees. It was quite cold and windy on the ridge, however, and the route is certainly not to be underestimated. | |
| Posted Jul 18, 2007 3:36 pm | ||
| ClimberMan420 | Rough weather Date Climbed: Nov 10, 2006 | |
| We decided to climb from Laguna Verde to save money not hiring a Jeep aswell because its supposed to take less time. The weather was very discouraging on the approach, constant rain. We camped on the glacier at 5450 m after 3 days approach. The glacier was extremrly crevassed but finding route up was not to difficult. We were exhausted when we reached the base of the summit partly because we wernt very acclimatized. Also we wernt sure of the route, our porters had agreed to bring a map but they forgot it. We turned back because of uncertainty witrh the route and very poor visiblilty. I recomend for climbers to posible hire a porter to Laguna Verde as its hard to find teh way there if there is no vissibility. It is a great place to acclimatize well and then try the summit of Jakouma, I dont think it would be a very dificult climb with good weather and well acclimatized. We | |
| Posted Feb 2, 2007 5:48 pm | ||
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