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Stately Pleasure Dome Climber's Log
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AlpineAffinityGWB  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2009

Pretty sweet routes, nice view of Tenaya Lake
Posted Dec 30, 2009 8:56 pm

rhyangWest Country, Boltway  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2009

Climbed with John. Saturday we swapped leads on West Country -- he led pitches 1 and 3.

Sunday we climbed Hermaphrodite Flake. I led the first 5.7 pitch of the Boltway, then we rapped off (two 60m ropes). Be careful not to get ropes stuck in the cracks while pulling the rope on the second rappel !

Beautiful weather - warm in the sun.

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Date climbed: 3-July-2009
Route climbed: South Crack

Climbed with K. Chaltikian on a beautiful day. He led the first two 5.8 - 5.9 pitches (linked pitches 1-3 w/60m rope) and last two; I led the runout 5.6 - 5.7 friction pitch. Classic climb !

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Route climbed: Hermaphrodite Flake to the Boltway
Date climbed: 11-August-2007

Climbed with Matthew Holliman. Led three pitches, doing the 'up over the top' variation on the flake this time. The first pitch of the boltway was 5.6 - 5.7 according to the topo, fun lead in my new Acopa JB's. Matthew didn't seem to be enthusiastic about the final 5.8 pitch, and I didn't feel like leading it again, so we rapped off - two double rope rappels got us back to the ground.

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Route Climbed: Hermaphrodite Flake to the Boltway
Date Climbed: 3-Aug-2007

Swapped leads with Chris Gibson. We simul-soloed to the start of the flake (4th class) and then I led under the flake (5.4). That thing made me nervous =:-O

Chris then led up the Boltway (5.8). I led the last pitch, which had some 5.8 friction moves and then traversed into an easy crack system to the left where it joins West Country.

Then soaked my foot in Tenaya Lake :)

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Date Climbed: 6-Aug-2006
Route Climbed: West Country

Swapped leads with Calvin Kilcrease (he led 2nd [5.7 lieback] and last pitches, I led the first and third [5.5 - 5.7 friction]). Excellent weather, great scenery, fun climbing
Posted Oct 26, 2009 10:42 am

WMLSweet route!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2009

Climbed via Great White Book, awesome route, BRING BIG PRO!
Posted Oct 19, 2009 1:52 am

JHH60West Country  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009

On 7/20/09 led pitch 1 up to the flake. Was enjoying the view of Tenaya Lake until buddy got up to the belay stance and said he wasn't feeling well, so we climbed to top of Hermaphrodite flake and rapped down. I think it was the red wine he was drinking the night before (grr).

Went back with Rob on 10/24 and led pitches 1 and 3. Nice weather and no line at the base! On 10/25 Rob and climbed Hermaphrodite Flake (led pitch 2).
Posted Jul 24, 2009 5:28 pm

GroundswellSouth Crack

climbed with tyler. lots of parties ahead and behind us. awesome views
Posted Mar 24, 2009 11:43 am

BonesawWest Country  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008

Awesome route... especially pitch 2!
Posted Feb 23, 2009 9:13 pm

Tom FralichSee Below  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2008

South Crack (5.8, 6 pitches) -- August 14, 2008 -- Mary and I climbed this as our last route in Tuolumne during our road trip/Sacramento visit in 2008. We did the direct start up the thin crack (5.9) which made for a nicer start than the usual traverse into the crack. Some thin moves for sure. The crack was fantastic while it lasted. We opted for the variation finish described by SuperTopo and avoided the worst of the run-out slabs. The descent to Tenaya Lake was a piece of cake and we finished off the day with a swim in the lake.

West Country (5.7, 4 pitches) -- July 2, 2009 -- Mary and I did this route on a day trip to Tuolumne, soon after her arrival in CA. Fun climbing, although the corner on P2 involved some awkward gear placements. The slab on P3 was really casual. We enjoyed the views from the summit and then headed down the easy way and went to the store for lunch.

Hermaphrodite Flake to Boltway (5.8, 4 pitches) -- July 16, 2009 -- Mary and I did this climb on a warm afternoon after driving up from Fresno. I climbed the right side of the flake and I think it is a bit of a sandbag at 5.4. The face climbing off the top of the flake was precarious for about 20 ft, but it eased considerably afterwards. I'm getting tired of the descent off of Stately Pleasure.
Posted Aug 15, 2008 2:33 am

Sierra Ledge RatDozens of free-solos of GWB

I free-soloed the GWB so many times I lost track. If a free-solo climber passed you on the GWB in 1978, and he had a tape player blasting Jimi Hendrix -- that was me.
Posted Jul 17, 2008 11:05 pm

d_shorbtenaya lake was sweet
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2007

west country and the great white book were great short climbs to do together. waited until the crowds left, while we soaks in the lake.
Posted Sep 23, 2007 3:40 pm

Pawel KrolNice and sustained  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2007

Classic
Posted Aug 12, 2007 11:33 am

darinchadwickWest Country and Boltway  Sucess!

West Country and the boltway so far, still looking for a chance to climb South Crack.
Posted Jul 8, 2007 5:25 pm

rpcSouth Crack  Sucess!

Fun, fun, fun!! Climbing makes up for the strenuous approach.
Posted Jul 5, 2007 5:49 pm

mow10Great White Book  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2004

I led and climbed with bodyjams almost all the way. My second stemmed practially the whole route. Interesting. With 40 foot runouts if your body is the piece of pro, that's what it is!
Posted Mar 17, 2007 7:27 am

hockeymanMany routes over the years  Sucess!

South Crack, Great White Book, the .10d to the left of the Book (can't remember the nbame right now). Nice dome in a great area.
Posted Mar 7, 2007 5:02 pm

SharonSo many climbs, so little time  Sucess!

South Crack,
West Country, 24 August 1995.
Great White Book, II 5.6. June 1992; 3 Sept 1996.

Partner: Steve Reynolds

Posted Dec 22, 2006 4:19 am

MelbaToastA gorgeous unique climb  Sucess!

South Crack was my first route in Tuolumne. It was fabulous and unforgettable - followed by a whole bunch of other fabulous and unforgettable routes there !
Posted Sep 11, 2006 7:17 am

thedusAscent of Hermaphrodite Flake to the Boltway  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006

Climbed this route during a "tour of the classics" day that included Hermaphrodite Flake to the Boltway (South Crack had a line), West Crack, and Fairview Dome's Regular Route. Fun route. We climbed H. Flake as one pitch, then finished up the Boltway.
Posted Aug 27, 2006 8:24 pm

gordonyeRoute Climbed: Great White Book Date Climbed: August 2005  Sucess!

Fun climb with Dirk (Diggler), finishing just before an afternoon shower. Heavenly view of Tenaya Lake from the top, but we had to get down in a hurry.
Posted Feb 9, 2006 5:20 pm

pvalchevRoute Climbed: South Crack Date Climbed: August 7 2005  Sucess!

Thoroughly enjoyed this, being one of my first climbs in California (and the US) - nice scenery from this one. The runout friction pitch was also something new and "interesting".
Posted Jan 15, 2006 6:22 pm

SawtoothSeanRoute Climbed: Great White Book Date Climbed: September 7, 2001  Sucess!

Some off-width runout, but still fun climbing.
Posted Jan 4, 2006 9:10 pm

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