| TOOELE TOWER 5.9
first ascent: Todd Stephens and Troy Anderson
October, 1998
I got the first ascent of this route and tower. I heard rumors floating around Springdale that the tower had been climbed. So much loose and foggy information was available that my partner Todd and I carried full aid/wall racks up to the thing! When I reached the top of the third pitch (the summit) I couldn't find any anchors. The sun was setting and we forgot head lamps. I had to drill a bolt and pound a knifeblade in the dark. For the next rappells we had to leave cams and slings. About two weeks later, we came back and put bolt anchors where the cams were. The anchor at the start of the third pitch wasn't there during the first ascent, I climbed the crux with a bird-beak pounded into a shallow hole. This shallow hole was later turned into the bolt anchor. About a year later 11 people stood on the summit at the same time. We moved all the debris and rock on the summit to see if there was another anchor or slings left by an earlier party than that of my first ascent. Nothing was found. I got on rope and explored over the edges of the summit in search of older anchors, yet nothing was found. To this day, my first ascent of this tower is discredited. Still, the "locals" claim that it was done in the 1980's. To this day, I have found nobody that can explain how this tower was climbed before me. I named the tower TOOELE TOWER in honor of mine and Todds hometown. I had a name for the route, but forgot. BACKSIDE works well.
Cheers!
Troy Anderson |