You just don't expect to see such a deep canyon as you're driving through the west Texas flatlands. Beautiful place to see and hike. I actually got to drive my Jeep in the eastern part of the canyon outside of the park.
Have visited several times and even camped a time or two. The museum in nearby Canyon(town)is well worth a visit and to get a view of a bit wilder part, take highway 207 S from Claude (on US 287) it drops into the canyon and has a roadside park.You've come this far so continue on to highway 86(left or east) and hit Caprocks Canyon SP and a stop in Turkey, home of Bob Wills
I am a big fan of Charlie Goodnight, so I could not avoid the Palo Duro for long. It is a little over developed for my tastes, but so are most State Parks in Texas, and in this case who can blame them? Most peoples jaws would drop seeing such a huge canyon so close to FLAT Amarillo.
I've been here about 10 times. When driving there, the land is flat as a pancake, then the Canyon suddenly opens up before you. Good camping, hiking, and mountainbiking. Explore the trail-less section on the parks south end.
Spent a couple days around new years. All was fine except for some strong sand/windstorms. Went up to the lighthouse and did a couple more hikes in the park.
Camped in one of the sites nestled inside the canyon. Woke up early(5:00 a.m.) and hiked to Lighthouse Point. Besides the three people i was hiking with, I didn't see anyone on the trail going to and coming from Lighthouse. We did see two wild boar running around toward the end of the trail where its at its steepest.
I would suggest doing doing the hike in the morning hours. This will eliminate the Texas heat. More likely to eliminate others hikers being on the trail. And you'll have a better chance at seeing the wildlife.
I spent two days romping around the canyon as far as I could in the Texas heat with my roommmate. We had a blast! Getting firewood was a frustrating matter, but we enjoyed hiking through exotic gulleys, stumbling upon stranded deer, and climbing what ever we saw.
Took the trail to the Lighthouse and bushwacked over rugged terrain in hot temps one time. Have explored a couple of caves and slid down Devil's Slide. I heard they removed the Sad Monkey Railroad. I expect to go back soon and check out the rock climbing. The play during the summer is great and I have seen it several times. Avoid the storms as they can get very violent.