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Normal Route Climber's Log
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alpine climberNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 6, 2009

Heavy snows and high winds delayed the summit bid, but I and two other American mountaineers reached the top after 14 days in the park. Very strong winds summit day, difficult to stand up straight on any ridge and along the traverse. Crampons were necessary the whole day as the route was covered with wind-blown snow and ice. 14.5 hours up and back, but beautiful all the way.
Posted Mar 12, 2009 1:29 pm

granitepeakerVacas Approach  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2008

Started up the Polish Direct at about 5am. Not long after being on the route we decided the snow was too deep and the risk of avalanche was way too high. We saw people attempting the route a couple days before and it was taking them forever and one man got severe frostbite from having to camp out over night on the route. After the decision we returned to camp two and dropped off our technical gear and started up the traverse to the normal route at 6am. It took me five hours to reach the summit from camp two. I would have to wait a couple hours before I could share the summit with anyone else. The clouds started rolling in around 1pm so I was the only one that got any clear summit photos that day. I stayed on the summit with perfect weather for just over three hours. Many people had to retreat from their summit attempts that day in fear of frostbite. The temperature was -13 with wind chill. I also saw people retreating because they didn't have crampons. I ended up breaking trail for everyone that day in about six inches of new snow. You definitely wouldn't have wanted to do the Canaleta without crampons. The return from the summit took two and half hours. We would then traverse the mountain and descend via the Horcones Valley to experience the whole mountain.
Posted Feb 29, 2008 6:24 pm

Joerg MarretschNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2005

Lots of snow above 18000 ft., but successful.
Posted May 28, 2006 8:10 am

William MarlerNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 13, 1988

Lots of snow and very cold. But successful.
Posted May 9, 2006 5:30 pm

William MarlerNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 10, 1987

Great day but quite an epic.
Posted May 9, 2006 5:29 pm

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