
| I think this is the route I did. WIth so many names be tossed around, I can't be so sure. Everything I read made this seem like such an elusive rout finding challange, but to my surprise, I had no touble at all finding and staying on route. Hook right at the tarn to go up the talus slope, at the top, cut left along the obvious ridge that runs parallel to the face of Middle Pal, turn 90 degrees right at the intersecting ridge formed by the moraine and head stragight for the face. Where it deadends at the face, you can either go up a very steep and loos ramp to the right following the extremely obvious red rock, or go left across the top right corner of the left glacier. I chose the later; it was only about 25 feet of low angle sun-cups that I had no problem booting across with trecking poles. When you hit the face, look right and there is an obvious chimney that is easily climbed. From there just go straight up to the summit. At the summit you'll find an awkward north facing crack about chest high that leads to the summit can. |