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Rainbow Mountain > The Black Orpheus > Climber's Log|
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| Dow Williams | starting to do...  Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2009 | |
| quite a few repeats and I suppose this will be one of those as so many folks from out of town are told this is a route to do. Partner in from Portland who had never climbed at RR, so let him pick the route. I have to admit it grew on me more the 2nd time around. I would attribute that mostly to knowing ahead of time that I would rather solo pitches 4-7. As long as one is not dragging the rope on these pitches, makes for a better experience. 8hrs car to car this go and I stand by my eariler assesment of this being a 5.9 route, not 5.10a. That move everyone talks above has a 100% toe ledge out left. Stand up, do a bomber finger lock and then mantle on huge jug above. What I speculate is that many take away that finger lock with a piece of gear trying to sew the move up. Incredible day, have no idea where the Solar Slab tourists were, but few folks in Oak Creek for such a great Oct Sat. | |
| Posted Nov 1, 2009 12:02 pm | ||
| bdynkin | Black Orpheus on cool day Date Climbed: Mar 12, 2009 | |
| Nice route with a long approach. Not sustained and the 5.10 move felt easy. The upper 5.6 pitch with long undcercling crack felt hard though. | ||
| Posted Oct 14, 2009 4:55 pm | ||
| bfrench | Black Orpheus | |
| Great climb. | |
| Posted Apr 30, 2009 9:58 pm | ||
| fossana | black orpheus Date Climbed: Apr 18, 2009 | |
| Climbed with Jascha on a sunny spring Saturday with the winds keeping temperatures in check. Only one other party on the route; everyone else was headed for Levitation 29. The crux is like Panty Raid (Calico Hills), only much much shorter and with bolts. The 5.8 cracks are mostly surrounded by featured faces. IMHO, the 5.6 lieback sections above felt more committing. Not a ton of good nut placements, and I got by with one set of cams (forgot to bring a second set of smaller ones as recommended). Fun route with great views of Oak Creek Canyon. | |
| Posted Apr 19, 2009 11:28 am | ||
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| Dow Williams | Re: Hella climb! | |
| lol, no we did the move, just did not think it was RR 5.10a. I can barely recall, but I think we could reach at least one of the bolts from our station...I believe that is a typo, we set up a hanging belay to the right of those two bolts, not on them. We were in between pitches, we just went a little long on the previous pitch I believe. Saw your summit log signature atop Windy Peak just last week. I did Jubilant as well. Fun winter route. Cheers. | |
| Posted Dec 13, 2008 11:28 pm | ||
| TRP | Black Orpheus | |
| It is a classic, but don't climb on a hot day. | |
| Posted Dec 7, 2008 1:16 pm | ||
| brutus of wyde | Hella climb! Date Climbed: Nov 5, 2008 | |
| GREAT Route. Nurse Ratchet and I have been eying this one for years. Hanging belay on the Crux Bolts, Dow??? No wonder you thought it was easier than 10a! We thought the crux was full-on 10a (No hanging belay, and we don't have long reach.) Even with a very early start, we didn't reach the "IBM" boulder until twilight. Had to break out a rope again as we wound our way down the second and third class slab descent, in the dark. Of course, right now the Loop Road closes at 5pm and headlamps are needed at 5:30 pm, so I guess between being geriatric tortoises and short days, the fact that we didn't bivy can be considered a huge win! (grin). Glad we got that Late Exit permit. Went up yesterday into Lower Painted Bowl to retrieve our stuck rope, so got a lot of good pics of the upper part of the 2-rope Painted Bowl descent. Hope to put up descent info for this before the end of the year. Thanks to Radek, Chief and Dow for the inspiring words! Brutus, heading to the meds cabinet for some "Vitamin I" | |
| Posted Nov 8, 2008 1:00 am | ||
| tb00957 | black orpheus Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2008 | |
| great route. | ||
| Posted May 13, 2008 3:04 pm | ||
| The Chief | Gotta do... Date Climbed: May 30, 1992 | |
| A must do! From Solar Slab onto this line.... get on it and have some straight up fun! Think twice about doing this in Winter though!!! | |
| Posted Mar 15, 2008 7:39 pm | ||
| Dow Williams | Black Orpheus Date Climbed: Oct 17, 2007 | |
| Climbed it yesterday, agree with everything Radek said in his photo attachments....first three pitches were alright, nothing spectacular, pitch 2 was the best....pitch 3 not so much....if competent, you can put the ropes away for pitches 4-7...would go a lot faster....the Falcon Guide and Supertopo are quite conflicting on this section...but all the ground is easy...most of it is exposed.....than as Radek alluded, those last pitches were fantastic...definitely worth the trip up there...we actually set up a hanging belay on those two bolts used to help on the crux move on the pitch above that spectacular corner pitch....that is not a 5.10a move....a lot easier than it looks actually....another nice pitch though...and again, like Radek said finger crack pitch above those 5.9 pitches is probably more like a 5.7 than 5.6...beautiful position pitch...the descent is fast and furious....I don't get the alpine IV rating on this route considering the easy descent (only two double rope raps with am easy walkoff)....all alpine ratings in the desert are a grade or two higher than what we would rate them in the Canadian Rockies....10 hrs car to car I think...first time partners climbing together, but we moved fairly fast....I can see how folks get benighted as the days get shorter....but you do not have to park in the park (which closes at 6:pm), so you can get a very early start with headlamps from the old campground on the main road outside the park, you could take off, say 2 hours before the sun comes up....Thanks for the inspiration Radek (recent photos)...cheers | |
| Posted Oct 18, 2007 12:10 pm | ||
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