| My first route up the Captain, which was an ambitious (foolish?) choice since the route was probably still A3+/A4- back then. The Chicken Bolt and Loose Block pitches still had obvious meaning back then.
I was 19 and talked my 17 year old buddy into doing it after borrowing a friend's homemade porta-ledge. Half way up the climb my partner admits that our friends were betting him camming devices that we'd bail. I was furious he didn't tell me earlier so I could get in on the bet. Even after later doing the Shield and the PO Wall, nothing has come close to feeling as hard or technical as this did. |
Sierra Nevada