| I made it! Did the Clear Creek Route. My third summit on this route out of 7 attempts. My other failures were due to weather or starting too late, etc.
I think the best route is to traverse right at the big orange rock (at about 12,800') and get on the upper Wintun Glacier, but this time I went straight up through the Genuine 5 Star scree pile to the summit plateau. That scree pile is dangerous to be below if people are on it due to rock fall, especially if there is snow that provides a good rolling surface for the rocks. The rocks come down off the 5 Star scree pile like missiles. Fortunately I was the only one this time.
Once, in July, I made it to the top of the Genuine 5 Star Scree pile (the summit plateau) and the wind was so strong I could not stand so I tried crouching but that was no good either. I went back down with the summit in full view only 3 or 400 feet above me.
Last year, most of the upper Wintun had melted and had been replaced by flatish rocks. As I crossed the flatish rocks on my way to the Glacier snow, I noticed there was water ice beneath them. The rocks slid on this ice as I tried traversing to the Glacier Snow. It was too dangerous to walk even with crampons so I abandoned the attempt.
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California Cascades