The snake was fun. Saw huge rockfall down the other side, the size of a VW. Very icy at the turn, and loose dry rock at the very top, had to dance very carefully to avoid knocking any down.
Nice way to climb this peak. We were a little late in the season, the snow was soft, and melting fast. Found a rope, and some gear near by on the 5.6 route. Some one must have bailed from a storm.
Camped in Blaine Basin. Still plenty of snow on the main never-ending approach to the Snake. The snow was in good condition for the most part with the cornice at the dogleg spewing snow down on us. We made it all the way to the end of the snow to find the 5th class rock to the top to dicey to solo and the lower gully blocked by a cornice. We made the looong down climb of defeat. And I stubbornly drove to Yankee Boy Basin and climbed the Lav Col the next day.
Nabbed this route several times from Lavender Col and once by meeting up with it through some couloir on the other side of the mountain...great fun! Exit the ice on top via the rightward wall for an exciting finish and surprising those on the summit!
I've been in 1/2 ice conditions Date Climbed: Nov 17, 1997
I stuck to the climbers left wall to avoid the rubble peppered ice that would crumble nearly every kick of the crampons. After the lower choke the route was great. I hope these are rare conditions... I really loved this climb.
This was a fun route that 3 of us soloed together in May. It was all soft snice or snow, with a fun direct finish. I need to return in full ice conditions.