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Hotlum Glacier Climber's Log
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Darren9Timing is everything  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 13, 2009

I have climbed this glacier and its assorted ridges on both sides 4 times over the last two years, all in May and June. About half of the time we have experienced high winds up to 55 mph and partial or complete whiteouts anywhere above 10,000. The other half the time it has been beautiful. Most of the time I come in from Northgate, since Brewer is usually snowed in this time of year. Before July this route is safer, easier, and just as scenic. My favorite way of climbing Shasta.
Posted May 18, 2009 1:17 am

PellucidWombatToo Late in Season, but Plenty of Fun!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2008

Attempted the route from the Brewer Creek TH and made it up to the base of the 2nd icefall before reaching a dead-end from the melted out crevasses. Fun ice climbing to get there, and I can't wait to come back!
Posted Dec 30, 2008 7:14 pm

skottyGreat route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007

Plenty of crevasses to play around on the way up and no crowds.
Posted Aug 29, 2007 7:27 pm

forjanHotlum Left Gully Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007

Simulclimbed the Hotlum Left Gully Direct with kovarpa. Started out from our camp at 10,200' at ~ 3:30am. I dropped one of Pavel's short screws on the upper gully and lost an hour roundtrip as I had to downclimb 500 feet to retrieve it. Summited by 10am. Windy & chilly. Back at Northgate trailhead by 4pm. Absolutely awesome burgers & garlic fries at Billy Goats Tavern in town.
Posted Aug 6, 2007 1:26 pm

ascendingzionAll you want in a glacier route
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2006

This is a great route with good camping, crevasse rescue, serac climbing, route finding and ice or rock higher up, overall a great alpine climb!
Posted Feb 1, 2007 8:57 pm

FlexHotlum in Aug/03  Sucess!

A mellow day up the middle of the Hotlum to the Right ice gully headwall. The gully was melted out at the bottom, so I skirted to the right and got in at the bottom of the ice and soloed to the top. Fun glissade down west of the glacier.
Posted Dec 20, 2006 5:23 am

Mike NGlacier is great

The glacier is phenomenal. Good for route finding and crevasse rescue practice. Camp has running water at this time of year.
Posted Aug 17, 2006 7:26 pm

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