
| Had been waiting all season for especially favorable conditions and a stellar weather forecast. I wouldn't want to be near this mountain in a winter storm. Serious stuff. We roped up at 13,400 ft for the couloirs and simulclimbed the majority of of the way to the summit with an occasional anchored/belayed section. The couloir crossover made for a spicy crux. Rapped the crux and then did two 70 meter raps back down the couloir in the dark. My toughest winter summit to date. Grueling but rewarding.
Our approach was from Cottonwood Creek. Its tough terrain to navigate, especially with a large overnight pack BUT its infinitely easier and safer than trying to climb to Broken Hand Pass from South Colony Lakes in winter as avalanches are a huge concern there on the steep, north facing slope. |