| The peak with the coolest name in the Pacific NW!
I climbed this peak from Deception Basin. This seems to be the easiest route finding and approach. Helmet, crampons and ice axe only, no harness or pro carried or needed. We camped in Upper Royal Basin. Times from camp to summit, 3.5 hours, a fit team of 3. Prepare for a class 4 move or two just below the summit block in a dihedral sort of gully. Leave packs below here for an easier time. Newbies might want a rope for this section. If you traverse left about 100 meters from the head of the glacier, you will find a much easier class 2 ascent slope. It's tempting to go straight up the ridge to the summit, but an initial traverse makes things a lot easier. |
