K2 Additions and Corrections
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|The official (Ardito Desio) report of the Compagnoni/Lacedelli climb stated that the team had to climb the last part of the route without the Oxygen.|
This has been demonstrated completely false because the pics on the summit are confirming they used oxygen up to the summit(masks and bottles).
Also the timing can support the availability of the oxygen up to the time they reached the summit.
This is a sad history that should (must) be re-written by Club Alpino Italiano admitting the truth on the great contribution of Walter Bonatti (accused playing dirthy tricks and using the oxygen reserved to the top team) for the conquest of K2.
|Posted Jan 27, 2004 11:15 am|
|Walter Bonati offers a fascinatingly, disturbingly different version of the final few days of the Italian K2 expedition in 1954. This version, long discreditted, is now given more credence thanks to recently discovered photos and Bonati's long-held physiological arguments. There is strong evidence that, among other things, the summit team did not run out of oxygen on the final summit bid. Readers are referred to a detailed discussion in Walter Bonati's "Mountains of My Life" referenced in the books section of this peak.|
|Posted Jan 6, 2005 1:57 pm|
|Wait a minute - NOTHING has been demonstrated about the use of oxygen. The only fact generally accepted is that, in all probability, the location of the last camp was different in respect to the "official" location (the one you see in the maps), and thus Bonatti could not have reached the camp for the night in any case (if this was done deliberately, it's another thing).And Compagnoni's behavior towards Bonatti was decidedly unfair, but that's another thing.|
The pics shows only that they arrived to the summit with their masks stiill attached to the gas bottles, nothing else. This could have been amply justified by the need to protect the mouth from the cold. Also, it's demonstrated that Compagnoni and Lacedelli arrived to the summit in - let's say - an very depleted psychological state, so it's difficult to explain their actions in normal rational terms. Lacedelli, in his recent memory book, has - in my view - very clearly re-affirmed that the oxygen finished 200-300 meteres below the summit.
I don't think Bonatti used the top team oxygen for the simple reason that (as everyone knows) the oxygen was mainly useless, because of it's gas mix was wrong (only four bottles were used in the entire expedition). Prolonged use would have caused chest pains, etc.
Bonatti's smear campaign against the K2 team, while partially justified by his forced bivouac with Madhi (surely a terrible experience) and his mistreatement by Compagnoni, has gone way too far. It's a very, very, VERY Italian attitude: while in other countries they would have treasured such an accomplishment as a source of national pride, in Italy we're basically reducing one of the greatest mountain feats ever to a bar room brawl (with all the added journalistic hypocrisy of "making all more human" - yeah, sure!). Whatever really happened on the mountain, Compagnoni and Lacedelli arrived to the summit, and Bonatti didn't. His contribution was huge, but the same can be say of Abrham and Rey, who did most of the "dirty work" to equip the route on the Black Pyramid.
Can't we simply move on?
|Posted Jan 8, 2005 5:37 am|
|Murph Goes to K2 VHS, The best K2 climbing vedio on market by American K2 summiter Billy Person.|
|Posted Jan 3, 2006 1:51 am|
|In a departure from the typical expedition documentary, this video chronicles the attempt of the International K2000 Expedition to climb K2's Abbruzzi Ridge. Narrated by a six-inch Gorilla named Murph, who attempts to be the first of his species to ascend the mountain, this often humorous look at an otherwise serious undertaking offers stunning views of the route and surroundings, as well as introducing the viewer to the colorful Pakistanis who essential to the success of the trip. Voted " Best Mountaineering Film" at the Vancouver Int'l Mountain Film Festival 2002. This film is produced By American Billy Pierson who reached the Summit of K2 on 7/30/00 as part of Gary Pfisterer's expedition. The film is about 56 minutes... VHS|
K2 DVD by Billy Pierson
|Posted Jan 3, 2006 2:02 am|
|Diego Sahagún||A magic mountain named K2|
|Posted Aug 6, 2008 12:16 pm|
|aaporik||Table of contents|
|It will be informative if you can add BOOKS ON K2 in table of contents. Wilco van Rooijen the leader of Norit K2 Expedition 2008 recently publish his book on K2 by the name of "Overleven op de K2" in dutch language.|
|Posted Oct 9, 2009 8:19 am|
|dmiki||The first climber to summit K2 twice|
|was Czech climber Josef Rakoncaj (1983 & 1986).|
|Posted Dec 5, 2010 10:33 am|
|dmiki||"No woman has ever scaled all 14 8000ers"|
|Posted Dec 5, 2010 2:54 pm|
|dmiki||Women of K-2|
|9 Oh Eun-Sun South Korea 20 July 2007 SE Ridge (Abruzzi Spur)|
10 Cecilie Skog Norway 5 pm, 1 August 2008 SE Ridge (Abruzzi Spur)
11 Go Mi-Sun (Mi-Young) South Korea 5:30 pm, 1 August 2008 SE Ridge (Abruzzi Spur)
|Posted Dec 5, 2010 2:59 pm|
|there was a national geographic expedition in 2011. this is utter nonsense. nationa geographic should be ashamed of this . you bloodly take 4 tons of equpment and 14000 feet of rope. this is not mountaineering. i could just land up on the top of k2 with an airplane. or we can take a platoon up the k2 or a whole battalion. if you mountaineers have the balls, try to go in groups of 2 or 3 up this mountain like i will do i one day or don't attempt it. shame on you and shame on national geographic for all the environmental damage. i am least impressed!|
|Posted Feb 21, 2015 11:49 am|