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K2 Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-9 of 9

signorellil	Untitled Comment
Voted 10/10	Wait a minute - NOTHING has been demonstrated about the use of oxygen. The only fact generally accepted is that, in all probability, the location of the last camp was different in respect to the "official" location (the one you see in the maps), and thus Bonatti could not have reached the camp for the night in any case (if this was done deliberately, it's another thing).And Compagnoni's behavior towards Bonatti was decidedly unfair, but that's another thing. The pics shows only that they arrived to the summit with their masks stiill attached to the gas bottles, nothing else. This could have been amply justified by the need to protect the mouth from the cold. Also, it's demonstrated that Compagnoni and Lacedelli arrived to the summit in - let's say - an very depleted psychological state, so it's difficult to explain their actions in normal rational terms. Lacedelli, in his recent memory book, has - in my view - very clearly re-affirmed that the oxygen finished 200-300 meteres below the summit. I don't think Bonatti used the top team oxygen for the simple reason that (as everyone knows) the oxygen was mainly useless, because of it's gas mix was wrong (only four bottles were used in the entire expedition). Prolonged use would have caused chest pains, etc. Bonatti's smear campaign against the K2 team, while partially justified by his forced bivouac with Madhi (surely a terrible experience) and his mistreatement by Compagnoni, has gone way too far. It's a very, very, VERY Italian attitude: while in other countries they would have treasured such an accomplishment as a source of national pride, in Italy we're basically reducing one of the greatest mountain feats ever to a bar room brawl (with all the added journalistic hypocrisy of "making all more human" - yeah, sure!). Whatever really happened on the mountain, Compagnoni and Lacedelli arrived to the summit, and Bonatti didn't. His contribution was huge, but the same can be say of Abrham and Rey, who did most of the "dirty work" to equip the route on the Black Pyramid. Can't we simply move on?
	Posted Jan 8, 2005 5:37 am

marco979

Untitled Comment

Voted 10/10

The first ascient in 1954 was done by Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni but they received a decive help in its conquest from Walter Bonatti, their partner in the climbing. He carried the oxygen from camp 7 to camp 9 the day before the conquest, but he couldn't find the place in wich Lacedelli and Compagnoni built the nine camp. So he slept with Mahdi, a pakistan sherpa, at 8100 meters without anything to repair himself. It's a miracle that he survived!

Without the oxygen (the next day taken by Compagnoni e Lacedelli) the conquest was impossible.

Posted Oct 21, 2003 8:56 am

fabrizior

Untitled Comment

Hasn't voted

The official (Ardito Desio) report of the Compagnoni/Lacedelli climb stated that the team had to climb the last part of the route without the Oxygen.

This has been demonstrated completely false because the pics on the summit are confirming they used oxygen up to the summit(masks and bottles).

Also the timing can support the availability of the oxygen up to the time they reached the summit.

This is a sad history that should (must) be re-written by Club Alpino Italiano admitting the truth on the great contribution of Walter Bonatti (accused playing dirthy tricks and using the oxygen reserved to the top team) for the conquest of K2.

Posted Jan 27, 2004 11:15 am

CharlesD

Untitled Comment

Hasn't voted

Walter Bonati offers a fascinatingly, disturbingly different version of the final few days of the Italian K2 expedition in 1954. This version, long discreditted, is now given more credence thanks to recently discovered photos and Bonati's long-held physiological arguments. There is strong evidence that, among other things, the summit team did not run out of oxygen on the final summit bid. Readers are referred to a detailed discussion in Walter Bonati's "Mountains of My Life" referenced in the books section of this peak.

Posted Jan 6, 2005 1:57 pm

signorellil	Untitled Comment
Voted 10/10	Wait a minute - NOTHING has been demonstrated about the use of oxygen. The only fact generally accepted is that, in all probability, the location of the last camp was different in respect to the "official" location (the one you see in the maps), and thus Bonatti could not have reached the camp for the night in any case (if this was done deliberately, it's another thing).And Compagnoni's behavior towards Bonatti was decidedly unfair, but that's another thing. The pics shows only that they arrived to the summit with their masks stiill attached to the gas bottles, nothing else. This could have been amply justified by the need to protect the mouth from the cold. Also, it's demonstrated that Compagnoni and Lacedelli arrived to the summit in - let's say - an very depleted psychological state, so it's difficult to explain their actions in normal rational terms. Lacedelli, in his recent memory book, has - in my view - very clearly re-affirmed that the oxygen finished 200-300 meteres below the summit. I don't think Bonatti used the top team oxygen for the simple reason that (as everyone knows) the oxygen was mainly useless, because of it's gas mix was wrong (only four bottles were used in the entire expedition). Prolonged use would have caused chest pains, etc. Bonatti's smear campaign against the K2 team, while partially justified by his forced bivouac with Madhi (surely a terrible experience) and his mistreatement by Compagnoni, has gone way too far. It's a very, very, VERY Italian attitude: while in other countries they would have treasured such an accomplishment as a source of national pride, in Italy we're basically reducing one of the greatest mountain feats ever to a bar room brawl (with all the added journalistic hypocrisy of "making all more human" - yeah, sure!). Whatever really happened on the mountain, Compagnoni and Lacedelli arrived to the summit, and Bonatti didn't. His contribution was huge, but the same can be say of Abrham and Rey, who did most of the "dirty work" to equip the route on the Black Pyramid. Can't we simply move on?
	Posted Jan 8, 2005 5:37 am

aaporik

Untitled Comment

Voted 9/10

Murph Goes to K2 VHS, The best K2 climbing vedio on market by American K2 summiter Billy Person.

Posted Jan 3, 2006 1:51 am

aaporik

Untitled Comment

Voted 9/10

In a departure from the typical expedition documentary, this video chronicles the attempt of the International K2000 Expedition to climb K2's Abbruzzi Ridge. Narrated by a six-inch Gorilla named Murph, who attempts to be the first of his species to ascend the mountain, this often humorous look at an otherwise serious undertaking offers stunning views of the route and surroundings, as well as introducing the viewer to the colorful Pakistanis who essential to the success of the trip. Voted " Best Mountaineering Film" at the Vancouver Int'l Mountain Film Festival 2002. This film is produced By American Billy Pierson who reached the Summit of K2 on 7/30/00 as part of Gary Pfisterer's expedition. The film is about 56 minutes... VHS

K2 DVD by Billy Pierson

Posted Jan 3, 2006 2:02 am

Diego Sahagún

A magic mountain named K2

Voted 8/10

http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17470

Posted Aug 6, 2008 12:16 pm

aaporik

Table of contents

Voted 9/10

It will be informative if you can add BOOKS ON K2 in table of contents. Wilco van Rooijen the leader of Norit K2 Expedition 2008 recently publish his book on K2 by the name of "Overleven op de K2" in dutch language.

Posted Oct 9, 2009 8:19 am

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