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U-Notch + Chimney Variation Comments

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Digglerdifficulty

Hasn't voted

As a technical rock route's rating informs a potential climber as to its difficulty (& thus gives them an idea of whether or not the climb is possible for them), so does the steepness of an ice route tell its difficulty. This should be stated in the route description, as that the couloir constitutes the majority of the climb. Also, the gully from the other (W) side is class 3, with a few moves of 4.
Posted Oct 9, 2007 5:05 pm

The ChiefSOOOOOOO...

Hasn't voted

When is the last time someone actually Rapped the entire Chute and U-Notch with just a singe 50m rope.... IMPOSSIBLE!

This needs to be updated asap.

Single 60m rope minimum and that will entail some down climbing for the 5th & 7th raps. 70m would make life that much better and double 50's would make it completely doable with no downclimbs.

This is as of yesterday's round trip on the entire route to the summit.

And I concur with with Diggler's assessment regarding rating recommendations and the Chute's actual rating and required rock climbing ability level with wet boots. 5.6 as noted in several GB's, would be more appropriate than 5.2.

I would also add the Right Traverse around and onto the east slabs and then drop back west into the main southside chute option after reaching the top of the chute/chimney as an easier option
Posted Jul 17, 2009 6:21 pm

Steve LarsonRe: SOOOOOOO...

Hasn't voted

See if you like it better now.
Posted Jul 21, 2009 12:10 am

The ChiefRe: SOOOOOOO...

Hasn't voted

Nothing like a good update to make things safer for the community!

Thanks Steve.
Posted Jul 22, 2009 11:40 pm

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