Did this route for the second time last weekend - now that I've had the chance to make most of the major route finding mistakes, here's my beta for the ridge:
When in doubt, go HIGH. I counted 5 distinct towers along the ride, and the easiest route appeared to go directly over the top of all but the 4th. (on #4 the route appeared to drop below a cliff on the SOUTH, then immediately turn back up to the ridge crest via a snow-filled gully.) A few of the upclimbs to the tower tops are high and exposed, but still class 3. At any rate, whenever faced with the choice of a) decend a rotten gully b)do a dicey traverse or c)climb back to the top - c is your best bet.
I've taken this route in late summer twice, and on both occasions came across a 6-8 foot wide sheet of snow covered ice angled at about 45 degrees spanning the width of the north side of the gully just below the 3rd tower (the first one with a large crack running vertically up it, capped off at the top by a chunk of rock). When present, this obstacle is hands down the crux of the route, so I thought it worthy of mentioning.
I'm not positive but I think this might have been where I almost lost it all last June. Climbed in late June and this was one of the only places with snow still around. Didn't have an axe or rope and the snow gave out. I ended up sliding ~30ft straight down before dumb luck led my flailing legs onto a rock straddle that just barely saved me from flying off the mountain. Were I to go again I would take an axe and a small piece of rope + pro just to safely shuttle across this snow/ice in early/late season.
DaFreshman - Aug 3, 2004 5:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentJust my 2 cents:
Did this route for the second time last weekend - now that I've had the chance to make most of the major route finding mistakes, here's my beta for the ridge:
When in doubt, go HIGH. I counted 5 distinct towers along the ride, and the easiest route appeared to go directly over the top of all but the 4th. (on #4 the route appeared to drop below a cliff on the SOUTH, then immediately turn back up to the ridge crest via a snow-filled gully.) A few of the upclimbs to the tower tops are high and exposed, but still class 3. At any rate, whenever faced with the choice of a) decend a rotten gully b)do a dicey traverse or c)climb back to the top - c is your best bet.
shaggyis18 - Sep 23, 2009 5:16 pm - Voted 7/10
Late Summer WarningI've taken this route in late summer twice, and on both occasions came across a 6-8 foot wide sheet of snow covered ice angled at about 45 degrees spanning the width of the north side of the gully just below the 3rd tower (the first one with a large crack running vertically up it, capped off at the top by a chunk of rock). When present, this obstacle is hands down the crux of the route, so I thought it worthy of mentioning.
mpbro - Feb 21, 2010 9:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Late Summer Warning"When present, this obstacle is hands down the crux of the route"
Boy, it sure sounds that way!
Warsteiner - Nov 13, 2013 11:41 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Late Summer WarningI'm not positive but I think this might have been where I almost lost it all last June. Climbed in late June and this was one of the only places with snow still around. Didn't have an axe or rope and the snow gave out. I ended up sliding ~30ft straight down before dumb luck led my flailing legs onto a rock straddle that just barely saved me from flying off the mountain. Were I to go again I would take an axe and a small piece of rope + pro just to safely shuttle across this snow/ice in early/late season.
mpbro - Nov 13, 2013 11:49 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Late Summer WarningHoly smoke!