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| JScoles | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | You should bost the grading this to at least a 5.1 as you say in your route a rope is needed making it an automatic 5.1. I would say 5.4 to 5.7. | |
| Posted Dec 16, 2001 4:58 pm | ||
| David P. | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | I did the Trap Dike on Colden a few years ago (1995, I think) in early July and would barely rate it 4rth class. 5.4 to 5.7 ??? No way. | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2001 8:30 am | ||
| JScoles | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | One very old guide book I have seen (1969) rates it as a 5.4 others who have climbed it claim it is more 5.6+. By calling it anything less would invite the unwary into a possiiable dangerous situation. According the the YDS class 5 starts as soon as a rope may be required to arrest a fatal fall hence the 5.1 ratting. Though I agree anyone who climbs at a 5.5+ level will find the crux very easy and be up this in a few mins with no problem. People without rock climbing expraince would find the exposure and the commitment needed to get up it quite demanding as there is no way down but up after the crux. Cheers | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2001 9:08 am | ||
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| John | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | I've never heard of rope use making a climb an automatic 5th class on the YDS scale, but I have heard of many people using rope on 4th class routes. According to this page on the YDS system, rope can be used as low as 4th class to prevent a fatal fall. There is a suggestion below to completely remove class 4 altogether in favor of making it all 5.0, but I'm not sure how much support this has. Class 4 - climbing on steep terrain requiring roped belay - I would die if I fell - hands? Yes! (goes with class 1 is a bike path) - exposed climbing such as a ladder going up the side of a water tank (belays should be used) - use a rope, but don't place protection - rope required to prevent serious injury if a fall occurs - why don't we just ditch Class 4 and call everything 5.0 that used to be Class 4! - you are leading along and it is not too hard and when you get to the end of the lead you notice that you haven't felt motivated to place any protection Class 5 - climbing involving technical moves and protective hardware in case of a fall - safety rope (goes with class 1 is a bike path) - thin, exposed climbing, requiring skill (the holds are not obvious to a novice - this is where weird moves such as laybacks, underclings, and evangelical hammerlocks come into play - leader places protection along the way - Real Rock Climbing(™) where most people will use a rope (but where some very experienced people won't feel the need) and where serious injury or death is very likely if you take an unprotected fall | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2001 12:12 pm | ||
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| JScoles | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Ok I checked into it. My YDS chart is almost 25 years old and they have evolved the system somewhat back then it only went to 5.10. Even the link you give is now out of date it only goes to 5.13 (sheet of glass) there are 5.14+ out there now. Lets just rate it at a 5.0 to be on the safe side since the two times I went up there novice climbers I use a belay over the crux. Though they did not need it. I wonder who maintains the YDS I have found nothing on it but I did find a large number of definitions most of witch contradicted each other. It is about 50-50 on what the definition of a 4th class is i.e. rope or no rope. I have yet to come across an original definition though the one I have I got from an old 1970s Chouinard Catlouge. Since Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard plus others defined the system I think the one I posses would be right? | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2001 4:08 pm | ||
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| Brian Jenkins | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Not to get too off the original topic here but in response to JScoles note, and this may be pretty common knowledge out there now as this was reported by most outdoor magazines, but, a 5.15 route was done this past summer by Chris Sharma so that barrier has been broken now too. Guess everything is out of date all over again! : - ) | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2001 4:30 pm | ||
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| David P. | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | I will take a peek at Don Mellor's excellent and very current guide book (Adirondack Rock and Ice) and get back to you. Ciao, dp | |
| Posted Dec 20, 2001 8:25 am | ||
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| David P. | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Re. the Trap Dike on Colden: Mellor's 1988 edition (with some additions made in 1994) of Climbing in the Adirondacks rates the Trap Dike as Class 3, but does mention in the opening chapter on the discussion of ratings/classification that the "crux" of the Trap Dike would be an example of Class 4. (This route in winter as an ice route is given an NEI 2) Is there any ice now?? Greetings from the flat and snowless Midwest... | |
| Posted Dec 21, 2001 8:08 am | ||
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| JScoles | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Ok I stand corrected. Lets put it at a 4+ rope needed. I am still woundering who "owns" the YDS As for Ice I imagine there is lots there now as the area has had a number of freeze and thaw cycles this December. The quality of which should get better in the second week of Jan when the real cold weather hits. Cheers | |
| Posted Dec 21, 2001 9:22 am | ||
| JScoles | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | After talking with a few freinds and checking all the guidebooks I could get my hand on it appears that there are two routes on Colden one is rateher obscure and simpley called the Dike and the other is the well known Trap Dike. The Trap Dike is in most of the guide books and is a 4th class climb (rope recommened). The other climb starts about another 200m down the lake for the Trap Dike and requires either a boat, a swim, or a traverse accross a large shelf then a rapel down to the start. depending on which end of the lake you come from. This route follows a much smaller and shorter dike up to a wall over and then you can eiter go strait to the summit or traverses across to join up with the Trap Dike route. This route is not in Don Mellor's latest book but I do have it in a very old guide book whcih calles it Colden Dike, and rates it as class V climb on an old scale which would be a 5.4~5.6 YDS. This was the one I did many years ago hence my mistake. So I guess I was a little permature in trying to raise the rating of the actual route. Cheers | |
| Posted Jan 23, 2002 6:57 am | ||
| rolkamon | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | The rock climbing in the dike on the standard route is 5.0 if it is grade 5 at all, if you do it without a rope its by definition 4th Class. Ice climbing grade in the Dike is WI2 or 2+ I thought the steps were a little steep and one at least a little to long for plain old grade 2, but this changes year to year. The ice on the slab, and this year it was all ice was Grade 1 with a hell of a lot of exposure. | |
| Posted Feb 21, 2005 9:52 pm | ||
| rolkamon | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | If you choose to use a rope, if one of your party is not comfortable with what for scrambling would be a descent amount of exposure, a light rack is apropriate. There are 2 steps one would consider protecting, all the rest in the Dike really has no need of protection. The slab has some very exposed parts but nothing that difficult, if you wish to belay here trees are available for anchors. A few stoppers mid to large, a few tri-cam, maybe a couple of cams 0.5 -1.0 Camelots. For winter climbing a I took 5 screws, used only 2 on the taller step. Rock is available for anchors at the top of the first step there is a great crack 2 pick tri-cams, other places trees are available for anchors, long slings or cordolette. In winter conditions, for the steps I was glad to have dbl tools. A traditional longer mountaineering ax would be good to have, for walking. Were I to do it again I'd probably take a traditional ax and a shorter tool. | |
| Posted Feb 21, 2005 10:10 pm | ||
| nodecaf | Grading is Way Off | |
Voted 3/10 | NO way this is 5.6. Inside the dike the 2 steps MIGHT be very low 5th class; I'd call them 4th class. The slide is easy, easy slab: just walk up. I did this with my 60yr-old father who has NEVER climbed. He was scared a couple of times but technically handled everything just fine. We did not rope up and climbed in hiking boots. There is a tree at the top of the final step in the dike that is slung with some 7mm cord and a rap ring to belay off of (if you choose to do so). A really fun climb though. Plan on 10-11 hrs roundtrip with a group that can move steadily but not necessarily super-quickly. | |
| Posted Jul 4, 2007 6:52 pm | ||
| Narendra | Trap dike rating | |
Hasn't voted | This is not Class 5. Period. I think the owner of this page might want to consider changing the rating (for summer) to class 4. Those people looking for a true class 5.5 - 5.6 rock climb might be disapointed. Just my 2 cents. | |
| Posted Jun 4, 2009 10:02 pm | ||
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Adirondacks
