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Glacier de Ayoloco Additions and Corrections

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esugiRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

I read and studied the route described by Tom Fralich on the approach to the Ayoloco Hut. Then I was informed by another member of summit post that there is actually an alternate approach to the Hut. I just came back from climbing Izta (2/19/04) and we approached the hut using this alternate approach.



Take the lower trail from La Joya and drop down into the Tlaltipatango Valley below. Go across the valley and up the opposite face towards the "first saddle". Follow the many "cow paths". Everything is same up to this point. See my pics.



Now, at about 13,500 ft, hang a right towards the second saddle following the many more "cow paths". At the top of the second saddle, you will encounter class 3 rocks. Once you climb over the second saddle, you'll be at about 14,500 ft. You'll also see a memorial cross. See my pics.



From there, you'll see an obvious scree slope up and to the left (facing Izta). There are several trails leading to the scree slope so just pick one. At the top of the scree slope, you'll be at about 15,000 ft. See my pics.



At the top of the scree slope, you'll notice a ridge directly across. Climb up and over this ridge and traverse across few hundred feet. The hut will come into view very shortly at about 15,200 ft. See my pics.



I can not tell you if this approach is easier then the one described by Tom Fralich. From La Joya to the hut took us little less than 5 hours. This included at least one hour in breaks and carrying 45-55 pound packs (including 10 liters of water!) We carried all the water for one night stay at the hut. We crossed only one stream but this was in the Tlaltipatango Valley. Not much help when you're camping some 2000 vertical feet from there. A lot of snow patches around the hut, thanks to the recent snow storm but in drier years, finding snow to melt could be difficult. If you're climbing earlier in the season (Nov, Dec), snow should not be difficult to find, I would think.



Posted Feb 28, 2004 5:47 pm

Tom FralichRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

Thanks for the info. I remember seeing a higher path that split off just as we were leaving the hut during our descent. This is probably the route which you have described. Good job on the description. I've incorporated the info onto the Ayoloco Glacier page.
Posted Mar 2, 2004 12:33 pm

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