Please note: This is one of the few routes in the Sierra, that is much better in winter than in summer. It was first climbed some thirty years ago by Galen Rowell and Chris Jones in early March and for a good reason. The slabs ice up and the climb has completely different character. It's one of the great introductions into High Sierra Winter climbing.
PS. I just read somewhere on this site, that the Winter Route can be climbed in the summer as well. I totally disagree because of esthetics and quality of climbing point of view. In the Summer, THIS ROUTE IS A PILE!! In the Winter, this route is a bit of a challenge, especially for the average weekend warior, it has wonderful steep snow, occasional ice and technical rock on a very long (2600') route. Just great for somebody to start their winter climbing on. In summer, it completely looses it's appeal as it is full of scree and slabs. The South Face is much better climb in the summer. Scotty's picture and drawing of the approach to the Notch are great and show the way clearly. FOR THE ROUTE ABOVE THE NOTCH, SEE MY TOPO OF THE SOUTH FACE EXIT (which this route shares the general area with) ON THE "Land of Little Rain" PAGE OF LPP.
Attempted the Winter Route on Jan 15-16, 2005. Stymied by soft snow conditions. It took 4 hours to get from the truck to the Stone House (via snowshoe). Would recommend waiting till February or March for optimal conditions.