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Ruth Glacier Additions and Corrections

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DuseksRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

It should be noted that in winter conditions significant AVALANCHE hazard on portions of this route.



Section 1: "locate a climber's trail leading directly up steep heather to a bench at 5,500 feet."

    On this section of the route a 400 vert. ft. slope faces North and ranges from ~40-55 degrees.



    know conditons for N facing slopes


Section 2: "Traverse to the east on steep snow. This is the most exposed portion of the entire climb so exercise caution above the cliff band below.

    Here you must traverse around the Northeast side of Pt. 5530. Traversing over a small cliff band puts you on Convex NE facing ~45 degree slope. Here Human Triggered avalanches are likely, do a test* You continue on E aspect slopes ~35 degrees until you hit the S ridge of Ruth.



    Know avalanche conditions for E facing slopes



    *There are a few good locations to do a Rutschblock test on North and East aspects just as you start the Ruth Mt climbing trail after Hannegan Pass.




Check the Avalanche Report before attempting Ruth in winter. Pay attention to N and E aspects. Do a rutschbock test for avalanche hazards. Good test locations are found just past Hannegan Pass. Ruth is a great Ski.



Good luck and be safe.



-Scotty
Posted Nov 25, 2005 10:27 pm

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