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| jimy | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | The east ridge can be divided into two parts, with the division occuring at the obvious shoulder halfway up the ridge. The first half of the route is non technical scrambling. Follow the line of least resistance up to and then right of the snow gulley. Some parties elect to climb the snow/ice in the gully, or more easily follow the rocks on the right. At the top of rocks, you will have to cross a patch of ice. This is where you may need an axe/crampons, and you may want the rope out now. Follow the rocks to the shoulder that divides the route. Now the technical scrambling starts. Follow the line of least resistance mostly following the ridge, great views the whole way. A few pitches of short roping, slings and pitons should be seen through this section. A traverse to the left, a little scrambling and then you are on the summit ridge. | |
| Posted May 27, 2003 10:51 am | ||
| jimy | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | A few 1"-2.5" cams, and a few stoppers should suffice. A couple trad slings and some extra slings if you plan to downclimb the east ridge. Lots of pitons found at belays. | |
| Posted May 27, 2003 10:58 am | ||
| jimy | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | The west ridge descent is a knee jarring affair. I would recommend,if you feel comfortable, to downclimb the east ridge. Bring a few slings to replace the old ones so you can do a little rappelling as well. If your tired and want to go down the west ridge I would recommend bringing running shoes. Once you get down the west ridge, throw on your runners and run the 15km back to your car for a full workout. | |
| Posted May 27, 2003 11:03 am | ||
| brandon | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | This is a brilliant route, and quite long. From the saddle, much scrambling leads to the first major step on the ridge. Stay just to the right of the main couloir. A smaller couloir must be crossed 2/3 of the way to the large step. To gain the large step, a 20 foot wide 45 ice slope must be crossed, a fall would be disasterous. Crampons useful, steps can be chopped as this is the only ice you'll encounter. Above the upper ridge steepens. Mucho 4th class, many 40 ft steep steps. The crux is a nearly vertical tower of almost 130 feet that has ample incut jugs, save for the last 5 feet which are protected by a fixed pin of dubious quality. Many parties are comfortable soloing the entire ridge excepting this tower. Easy snow traversing leads to the higher West Summit. | |
| Posted Jul 31, 2004 2:58 pm | ||
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