On the NE Ridge before getting to the NNE Face, there are at least three cairns making entry/exit points onto the face. Secor and and others have described climbing as high on the ridge as possible before moving on the face, but all three cairns will get on on the face.
The climbing in the lower half of the face is easier (class 3) with many variations possible and the cairns are mostly unhelpful, possibly just annoying. As one gets higher, this changes and the cairns should be used to find the easiest route. The exit chimney is located just under what looks like from below as the summit (the true summit is out of view behind it), the convergence of the NE Ridge and the main crest. I couldn't find the black watermarks referred to here and by Secor, but I found others that took me off-route to the left - so be wary about relying on that landmark.
but I found others that took me off-route to the left - so be wary about relying on that landmark.
and realized it was off to the right, not left. I was some 50-60 yards right (west) of the exit. I climbed all the way up to the Sierra crest where I found an old sling and scary climbing on the ridge. Climbing back down, I started following the ducks to the left and the exit crack.
Bob Burd - Jan 4, 2004 1:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentOn the NE Ridge before getting to the NNE Face, there are at least three cairns making entry/exit points onto the face. Secor and and others have described climbing as high on the ridge as possible before moving on the face, but all three cairns will get on on the face.
The climbing in the lower half of the face is easier (class 3) with many variations possible and the cairns are mostly unhelpful, possibly just annoying. As one gets higher, this changes and the cairns should be used to find the easiest route. The exit chimney is located just under what looks like from below as the summit (the true summit is out of view behind it), the convergence of the NE Ridge and the main crest. I couldn't find the black watermarks referred to here and by Secor, but I found others that took me off-route to the left - so be wary about relying on that landmark.
Bob Burd - Nov 17, 2004 2:52 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI was just rereading this:
but I found others that took me off-route to the left - so be wary about relying on that landmark.
and realized it was off to the right, not left. I was some 50-60 yards right (west) of the exit. I climbed all the way up to the Sierra crest where I found an old sling and scary climbing on the ridge. Climbing back down, I started following the ducks to the left and the exit crack.