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| Andinista | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | From Ishinca base camp, walk to left side of the valley, and follow a sparkling stream. Eventually, cross to the right side of the stream and follow a faint path through the bushes. Head up the small valley between the large moraine ridge on your right and the left side of the main valley. Continue up this small valley for about half of its length, until, you can see cairns leading left, up the steep hillside. Follow this steep trail to the top of the slope, where the trail traverses 100m right, through a boulder field, toward the obvious snow ramp. This snow ramp is at the bottom-right of a large rock buttress. Don crampons and walk up the snow ramp for about 200m, to the flat glacier ridge. There are many places to camp along this ridge (ca.5, 000m, 3-4 house from base camp). Beware of hidden crevasses. Some people might consider making their high camp at 5,300m, instead of on the flat glacier ridge at 5,000m. Doing so would make the summit day shorter. | |
| Posted Mar 21, 2005 11:28 pm | ||
| Andinista | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | The west face of Tocllaraju offers the rare opportunity to climb a beautifully smooth, high-angle ice face for over 300m, followed by steep snow up the final ridge to a perfect summit. They don’t get much better. Elevation gain: 1,032m from high camp; 432m from bottom of face. Grade: D+. Time: 2-3 hours from camp to bottom of face; 8-10 hours from bottom of face to summit. Star your climb early. From camp, hike up the glacier as you would to reach the northwest ridge. About halfway to the ridge, leave the trail and head up to the right, toward the bottom of the highest end of the bergschrund. Cross where feasible, and gain acces to the face. Climb 55-degree snow and ice, right of the mixed ground in the middle of the face, for 6-7 pitches. Find a way through the serac barrier at the top of the face, which involves 150m of 80-degree ice. Ascend lower-angled snow slopes and reach the summit via the south ridge (8-10 hours from bottom of face). Descent: Descend the north west ridge. | |
| Posted Mar 21, 2005 11:32 pm | ||
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Cordillera Blanca - RANGE