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Northeast Ridge from the desert floor Comments

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pmonks	Roped up
Hasn't voted	Don't underestimate how long this ridge is. A friend and I did it in July of 2003 and soloed and simulclimbed most of the ridge (we roped up for maybe 8 or so pitches, mostly before the major notch about halfway up), and still took two full days to get to the summit (we'd expected to take one). The first 2,000' of elevation gain up the scree pile toe of the ridge was mind-numbingly awful, but the higher we got the better the ridge became. Actually the exit gully was pretty unpleasant too - very loose large blocks. I'm sure there must be a better exit up there somewhere though - we were running out of light and didn't want to risk getting stuck in no-man's land. I also remember sharing my bivy bag with an errant mosquito on the summit - whoever said that mozzies can't survive at 13,000' obviously got it wrong!
	Posted Apr 10, 2008 1:20 am

asmrz

Roped up

Hasn't voted

Thanks for your comments. Miguel Carmona and I did this wonderful ridge in July of 1984 (4th recorded ascent) and it took us 12-13 hours from the base to the top. We DID NOT rope up. I absolutely agree with you, if you rope up on this, it becomes overnight trip, period. For the exit, the line taken by the 2nd Winter Ascent pair just a few weeks ago (March 2008) is propably the way to go. It would be great if one of the guys could identify the route on the exit ridge for us a little better, but there is a way to continue up the last portion of the ridge. I still believe, all in all, this to be a great line for those who are willing to suffer and take this ridge head on. Congrats on your climb, this does not get done often. In fact, the ridge might have less than 10 recorded ascents as of 2007.

Posted Apr 10, 2008 11:30 am

FortMental

Looks like a Gas!

Voted 10/10

Nice Route! Looks way better than anything out here in Colorado. Good route description.

Posted Mar 3, 2009 4:13 pm

asmrz

Re Looks like a Gas!

Hasn't voted

Thanks for your comments. I'm not sure how favorably (or not) this looks compared to all the fine climbing in Colo, but this is a good, moderate,long route in a great Eastern Sierra setting. A superb ropeless day climb in July! And you will not have to share this route with anyone, guaranteed!

Posted Mar 3, 2009 7:22 pm

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