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| PellucidWombat | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | I found nuts and hexes to be pretty useless on this climb. Having a lot of cams of various sizes can be helpful for setting marginal pro in flaring cracks or making anchor belays in the wide cracks along the dihedrals and roofs. | |
| Posted Jun 6, 2005 11:39 am | ||
| PellucidWombat | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | There is now a set of railroad tie stairs leading from the road up to the climbers trail. The climbers trail drops down and follows a fence for a short ways before merging with the abandoned dirt road. For early season ascents, an ice axe is recommened as the snow in the approach gulley is very hardpacked and can last most of the summer. | |
| Posted Jun 6, 2005 11:41 am | ||
| PellucidWombat | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | If you head directly up the smooth face just to the right of the chute that heads up from the slab's lowest point, you can reach a tree with slings (5.4, ca. 160 ft). From here, if you head to the dihedral to the right, it offers more place for pro and has a level spot for a gear anchor. (5.5) Above this is the large ledge with a huge tree that makes a nice belay ledge (5.5 left of the dihedral, 3rd class on top of the dihedral). I never saw the aforementioned bolts here. Beyond this is a large open face that likely requires a little simul-climbing (5.4 to easy 4th). If you can reach the roof above, there is a tree growing out of it that has some rap slings and makes a good anchor. Heading up and left w/ a little simul-climbing (cl. 4) is another good belay ledge w/ a good tree anchor. Beyond this we pretty much simul-climbed & free soloed the slab. | |
| Posted Jun 6, 2005 11:48 am | ||
| PellucidWombat | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | From the top of the west slab, scramble east up the ridge (fun cl. 3-4) until you meet up with the West Ridge route. From here you can either descend the ridge, descend the North Face Trail or climb to the north summit, from where you can traverse to the south summit and descend the main trail. | |
| Posted Jun 6, 2005 2:49 pm | ||
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