My group took a different line than that depicted in your very nice route photo. Instead of dropping down into the bowl and upclimbing the entire loose gully, we followed what we believe to be the standard route which goes to the right of the two rock towers at the right of the photo and then turns left, following cairns to a ledge. The ledge ends at a chimney. We climbed up the chimney, taking the left split inside it, and then followed ledges high into the into the gully on the right side of your route photo. We then followed ledges high across the face, around a nose, and eventually entered that loose gully half-way up. As you noted, the less of that gully the better.
Is there any chance I could get permission to use your route photo, without route and with credit, to depict our route on our web site, http://maroonclimb.com/ ? If so, please e-mail me at [email protected]