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| Eric Sandbo | Route Comment | |
Hasn't voted | In the 80's I climbed the NE ridge with Kevin Gibson, carrying all out gear with the intent of descending the standard route to the W. We met a couple of women on the ridge & at the top they said they' planned to descend the S ridge to retrieve their camp, but had only 1 rope. What could we say? They were women, we had testerone. I don't even remember whether we downclimbed or rappelled to the big S shoulder that gives Triumph its chair shape, except that what we did was straightforward and obvious. From the "chair seat" things were a little iffy. We settled on a blind rappel into a deep, dark gullly on the W side. I carried a pair of short prussiks and extra slings in case the ropes ran out before the rappel did. (2 short prussik slings almost always hang from my harness gear loops. They've been handy a few times.) It turned out that a single 2-rope rappel reached the bottom with room to spare. We walked the lower ridge south until we ran out of ridge, then rappelled the slabs E to the glacier. The (50m) ropes didn't quite reach. I can't quite remember, but I think we left a little wired stopper behind and and still had to downclimb the last bit to the snow. Reached the car about midnight. I'm still a bit miffed about carrying sleeping bags and everything over the top of that thing, then having to pair up with climbers who hadn't planned for the descent. But hey, it was an experience. | |
| Posted Nov 21, 2004 1:30 am | ||
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