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Frendo Spur Additions and Corrections

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IceMonkeyRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

If you are bold, you can go left around the rock Ronion. Mostly Scottish Grade 4, but has one pitch of vertical Ice.... Nice!
Posted Jul 25, 2005 9:01 am

lavakaRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

The route is very long and for all but the very quick, I'd recommend doing it in two days. We left the Plan d'Aigulle around 2 PM on the first day and that didn't give us enough time to make the nice bivouac spots before dark, though we climbed slowly. We belayed all pitches, most were very easy with rock shoes and we averaged about 1 piece of protection per 60 m pitch, but one pitch required some A0 climbing. We went to the right of the rock rognon and it got steeper as we went up. Very tiring. The ice was fine for tool placements, but the few screws that we put in were not very solid (this was early August, 2005). The snow pickets we took were useless. We found about 80 degree ice at the very end, but it was relatively easy compared to the long, tiring sections of unprotected 50 or 60 degree ice.

There was rockfall on the approach to the spur and to the right of the rognon; otherwise there was only the stuff we knocked onto each other.
Posted Aug 5, 2005 1:09 pm

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