I am not sure what is meant with "do not leave it towards east". At the point shown in the middle picture the ridge forks. The left arm (when viewing upwards) is broad whereas the right arm looks smaller. In the lower part both arms are relatively easy but as one approaches the top the right arm becomes very narrow and slippery. I'd advise to take the left arm.
Possibly the problems arose since my english, especially my "mountaineer" english is not good enough.
The middle picture shows a couloir (Rinne) that goes from the "Schiefer Gang" to the north ridge. Somewhat above the point where this picture was made, the couloir divides in two couloirs. One has to follow the *left* one. This is inncorrect in the original description I gave (I'll correct it soon). To keep left is an information taken from the Klier guide book. Obviously I recalled that incorrect.
Once you reach the ridge (Grat) through this left couloir you reach the summit by strictly keeping on the ridge. Do not leave the ridge towards west into the steep slope (Steilhang) though it might look easy on a first glimpse. The slope is very slippery and crumbly (bröselig). I tried it and I was lucky to come back without accident. When you keep on the ridge you have to scrample over rocks but much easier than, e.g. the couloir before.
Yes, my "mountaineering english" is also far from perfect. I guess if we could discuss this in german it would be a lot easier. But for the sake of internationality...
My information stems from the "Alpenvereinsfuehrer Stubai". In the description it mentions two forkings in/after the "Schiefen Gang". In the first one you should go right, in the second one (the one shown on your picture above) you should go left. Since we did not realize passing the first forking we accidentially took the couloir to our right in the second forking (which we considered to be the first one). Well, we made it to the top, but I would urgently advise not to follow this route.
I have some photos of this tour on my homepage, unfortunately it is offline for some days now.
haraldag - Sep 13, 2004 6:13 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI am not sure what is meant with "do not leave it towards east". At the point shown in the middle picture the ridge forks. The left arm (when viewing upwards) is broad whereas the right arm looks smaller. In the lower part both arms are relatively easy but as one approaches the top the right arm becomes very narrow and slippery. I'd advise to take the left arm.
JoPo - Sep 22, 2004 7:53 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentPossibly the problems arose since my english, especially my "mountaineer" english is not good enough.
The middle picture shows a couloir (Rinne) that goes from the "Schiefer Gang" to the north ridge. Somewhat above the point where this picture was made, the couloir divides in two couloirs. One has to follow the *left* one. This is inncorrect in the original description I gave (I'll correct it soon). To keep left is an information taken from the Klier guide book. Obviously I recalled that incorrect.
Once you reach the ridge (Grat) through this left couloir you reach the summit by strictly keeping on the ridge. Do not leave the ridge towards west into the steep slope (Steilhang) though it might look easy on a first glimpse. The slope is very slippery and crumbly (bröselig). I tried it and I was lucky to come back without accident. When you keep on the ridge you have to scrample over rocks but much easier than, e.g. the couloir before.
Hope these additions and the correction help.
I'll include them soon into the route description
haraldag - Dec 1, 2004 6:29 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentYes, my "mountaineering english" is also far from perfect. I guess if we could discuss this in german it would be a lot easier. But for the sake of internationality...
My information stems from the "Alpenvereinsfuehrer Stubai". In the description it mentions two forkings in/after the "Schiefen Gang". In the first one you should go right, in the second one (the one shown on your picture above) you should go left. Since we did not realize passing the first forking we accidentially took the couloir to our right in the second forking (which we considered to be the first one). Well, we made it to the top, but I would urgently advise not to follow this route.
I have some photos of this tour on my homepage, unfortunately it is offline for some days now.
JoPo - Dec 1, 2004 10:32 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI corrected it finally. Everything Harald wrote is correct. Thank you again.