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The Prow Additions and Corrections

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clevelacRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

While it is suggested above that this climb can be done in "a long day," that is an understatement. It is "possible" to do this route car-to-car in a day, but this would not be realistic for most parties. A successful ascent of the Prow will be much more likely from a high camp.
Posted Sep 27, 2005 8:19 am

xyatiRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

Thanks for the post.. but I must disagree. By a long day I mean over 14 hours. It is entirely possible to acheive this route in that time frame. 4 hours to above the burn. About 6 hours on the route itself (if you take your time) another hour to descend to the burn area from the summit. Then an easy 2 or 21/2 hours down to the car. If you're in shape (and you should be for this climb) then it is not only possible, but very achieveable. Just bring a headlamp. Also.. I would Recommend doing the approach and the descent in the dark to avoid the mosquitos.



For the record, we made a high camp when we did this climb. Becasue of the extra time it took to set up camp, then break down when done, it seemed like more work than it was worth. Furthermore, neither one of us got much sleep anyway. From my experience, I can say that it is best to forego a campsite and give it a long push when possible. You can sleep better before hand, you don't need to carry all the extra weight (making your ascent easier), and when you are off the actual route, you can just blaze back to the car instead of wasting time and energy to stop and break down a camp.
Posted Feb 6, 2006 11:58 am

clevelacApples and oranges

Hasn't voted

Possible in a day? Absolutely. More likely to succeed in a day? I would say no.

Anyway, I think you do others a disservice recommending a strategy that you haven't done yourself. Adding up your times from A to B is easy to do after the fact, but doing it all in one push just ain't the same.

In my opinion, a strong party could definitely knock this out in a day (with no weather issues) no problem, but I still think the chances of success for most are greater with a high camp. Besides, this route should be savored, and the valley is a sweet place to spend some time.
Posted Sep 24, 2006 1:23 am

philwortmannRe: Apples and oranges

Voted 10/10

I climbed this route with xyati and have to agree with him. Hiking in with camping gear weight means you need more food, more water, and more time. It is much easier to man up and flash it. It is also a cleaner style, which saves this "sweet place" for future generations. Mark and I have since employed a lighter and faster style to climb much harder routes than this on other peaks, and know that this one would go easier with this more modern style. Your slow and heavy approach to alpinism belongs to the last century, not this one. I suggest you spend less time packing and more time training.
Posted Dec 8, 2006 6:45 pm

xyatiRe: Apples and oranges

Hasn't voted

Mr. Apples and Oranges,

The only disservice I see is the reaction you decided to publically post for somehow being insulted by someone else's progress. I suggested doing this in a day becasue it IS entirely possible and success is MUCH MORE probable. It sounds as though you should take your own advice, sir, and stick to the strategies you are familiar with. For the record, other routes my climbing partner and I have accomplished in a day with tremendous success: Casual Route, Longs Peak. Ellignwood Arette, Crestone Needle. Total Abandon, Pikes Peak. Alexandars Chimney, Longs Peak. So I hope that those successes qualifiy me enough to recommend a strategy for others to enjoy.
Posted Dec 12, 2006 11:32 pm

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