Great page Jim. I plan on doing this route in the summer of 08. It seems similar in comparison to Pagoda's N. Buttress as far as the amount of time it would take to hike in and climb. do you agree? Thx!
Hey Foxy (Gurly)
Thanks for the interest in the Warbonnet. If you do the route the way Brad & I did it should be a bit more pleasant than Pagoda's North Buttress because the rock is much better and it's in the sunshine by mid-morning. The one drawback that seems to keep many folks from doing a second ascent is the long approach ... it's quite a bit longer than the approach to Pagoda, and therefore requires a very long day.
Good climbing, Happy Holidays & Peace, Jim
Thanks ... I'd appreciate hearing what you think about the route, the description, rating, etc. Also ... FYI, if you're looking for a partner, Andy and Ariel have expressed interest in climbing this route.
Peace, Jim
Amount of lower fifth class climbing after the crux pitch, easy and fun but if you aren't comfy with soloing it this route would take forever.
On pitch three, go right up the obvious crack at well protected 5.8 to avoid the zig zag.
I also felt pitch one was 5.7 at the top and a tricky finish. Otherwise the beta is dead on. A fun, well worth it route but very alpine. There is little to indicate that anyone has been up there recently and there is a lot of loose rock.
Thanks,
A bit more beta, from Snowbank Lake you need to head up and to the left into a gully, the start of the route is not visible from the lake.
You can also avoid the final head wall by heading to the left and scrambling up at 5.0 or so. We didn't feel like re-roping after a ton of scrambling and found this option.