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| Fritz Wintersteller | BP Facts | |
Hasn't voted | Dear Corax, BP is 8047m of if you use later reference 8051m but certainly not 8068m. The First Ascent was 9 June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl after Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak 8030m on 29 May 1957. | |
| Posted Feb 19, 2006 4:15 pm | ||
| Corax | The altitude | |
Hasn't voted | You're absolutely right about that. My mistake. I probably wrote a bit too fast and typed Gasherbrum I's altitude twice. Thanks for letting me know. | |
| Posted Mar 1, 2006 7:29 am | ||
| BigLee | Nice page | |
Voted 10/10 | Couple of things I noticed though. 12 of the peaks lie on borders, not 9 (all but Nanga Parbat and Shishapangma). You mentioned that Hermann Buhl climbed Nanga Parbat solo. He only climbed solo from around 6900m. Below this height the mountain was seiged. Also, you've missed off Alan Hinkes who climbed his 14th 8000er in 2005 (albeit in possibly the worst style and greatest cost). Lee | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2007 1:09 pm | ||
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| Corax | Re: Nice page | |
Hasn't voted | 12 of the peaks lie on borders, not 9 (all but Nanga Parbat and Shishapangma). ??? That's a grave mistake and I have no explanation where the 9 came from. Thanks for pointing that one out. You mentioned that Hermann Buhl climbed Nanga Parbat solo. He only climbed solo from around 6900m. Yes, I'm aware of that, but he was the first to summit a 8000m peak solo. Also, you've missed off Alan Hinkes who climbed his 14th 8000er in 2005 (albeit in possibly the worst style and greatest cost). Personally, I think he has climbed them all, but is his Cho Oyu climb recognized? Isn't Liz H. and some others claiming he doesn't have any proof? I feel I will create confusion if adding Alan to the list. | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2007 4:42 am | ||
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| BigLee | Re: Nice page | |
Voted 10/10 | True. Personally I think he climbed Cho Oyu as well. No one can prove he didn't so I think you have to take his word for it, as you usually do with most ascents. Hs seems a sincere guy. I think if Hinkes had any personal doubts about the ascent he would have gone back to make sure as he is obviously capable of climbing it. Some people also thought he hadn't climbed Kangchenjunga when he summited solo in similarly bad weather however that was baseless. | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2007 12:26 pm | ||
| Scott | Good list | |
Hasn't voted | Good list. I’m not planning on climbing all these monsters, but am curious as to where the difficulty sections for each peak came from. Most of them are consistent with what I have also read, with only a few exceptions I am curious about. Not debating, only curious. Most literature I have read puts Kanchenjunga as one of the harder peaks. I’ve never seen Dhaulagiri listed as one of the easier of the peaks or on the lower half of the list. Messner claims it is easier than Annapurna, but still one of the more technical peaks? Supposedly from other sources it is also one of the more technical peak, but also objectively safer than many of the ones? Curious about this one. About Gasherbrum I, it is worth mentioning that the now standard route is not the easiest route up the peak, but is the easiest of the routes currently open to climbers. The previous route was rather low angled, but politics and the Kashmir conflict intervened and a more difficult standard route had to be found. Strangely, the book Annapurna, a Woman’s Place makes a statement that Makalu was somewhat straight foreword, but I assume that that perception has now faded away. All newer sources seem to regard it as one of the more difficult, so I wonder where the perception (prevalent in the 70's) came from? | |
| Posted Sep 10, 2007 4:43 pm | ||
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| Corax | Re: Good list | |
Hasn't voted | Hmmm. Looking at what I have written I realize I have been a bit bad on counting to 14 it seems. Agreed on Kanchenjunga. Dhaulaghiri's place on the list I have to defend though. I have some friends who have been there, two, going at different times and none of them are very technical climbers. Both said the route was straight forward. Objectively safe? I have to disagree on that as well. Parts of the route is holds a serious avalanche danger. My friend almost got wiped away by one and look at what happened this year in May. I may be wrong about the above, but it's the impression I've gotten from the ones I have spoken to, but on the other hand, the literature I have about the peak is many times contradictive. When I was there, it for sure looked like a possible avalanche trap in one place. Should update about GI. Thanks. What you mention about Makalu is interesting, but I can't add any knowledge about it at all. It's one of the peaks I haven't seen up close and from what I've heard everyone seems to agree it's a hard one. Thanks for the input. I'll see if I can update from here. Have some problems for some reason. Still in Lhasa. | |
| Posted Nov 3, 2007 1:56 pm | ||
| hundy | Very Nice Page | |
Voted 10/10 | Thank you, this was very well put together and a-lot of good information. I really enjoyed reading all the information. Thank you for putting all this information on one page. | |
| Posted Sep 25, 2007 5:58 pm | ||
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| Corax | Re: Very Nice Page | |
Hasn't voted | Thanks for the nice comment. | |
| Posted Nov 3, 2007 1:56 pm | ||
| dmiki | First winter ascents | |
Voted 10/10 | Hi Janne, I'm not sure if you would want to include this info on the page: Everest - 17 February 1980, Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki (PL) Manaslu - 14 January 1984, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski (PL) Dhaulagiri - 21 January 1985, Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok (PL) Cho Oyu - 12 February 1985, Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski (repeated three days later by Andrzej Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka) (PL) Kangchenjunga - 11 January 1986, Jerry Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki (PL) Annapurna I - 3 February 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer (PL) Lhotse - 31 December 1988, Krzysztof Wielicki (PL) Shisha Pangma - 14 January 2005, Simone Moro (IT) and Peter Morawsky (PL) K2 - none Makalu - none Nanga Parbat - none Gasherbrum I - none Broad Peak - none Gasherbrum II - none Some further info | |
| Posted Mar 24, 2008 6:01 am | ||
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| Corax | Re: First winter ascents | |
Hasn't voted | Yes! I will definitely include that info as it's very relevant and interesting. Thanks! | |
| Posted Apr 20, 2008 7:20 am | ||
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| dmiki | Re: First winter ascents | |
Voted 10/10 | Dhaulagiri claims Piotr Morawski :(( http://mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18188 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piotr_Morawski | |
| Posted Apr 12, 2009 4:19 pm | ||
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| dmiki | Re: First winter ascents | |
Voted 10/10 | "On or about January 27, 2006, the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to make the first winter ascent. Makalu was first climbed in winter on February 9th 2009 by Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko. It was the final Nepali 8000er to be climbed in winter conditions." | |
| Posted Apr 20, 2009 7:59 am | ||
| Wolfgang Schaub | The highest point on planet earth. | |
Hasn't voted | "Everest: The highest point on planet earth" you say, and viewed with "conventional eyes" this is true. For all those, however, who feel they cannot master Everest in their lives, there is consolation, if they just abandon the arbitrary idea of measuring height as "above sea level". A more rigorous way of looking at it calls for measuring from the center of the Earth. Then Chimborazo in Ecuador is the highest on this planet. | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2009 2:24 am | ||
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| Corax | Re: The highest point on planet earth. | |
Hasn't voted | I guess I have to look at things with conventional eyes when making a page or it would be very complicated. Mauna Kea - the highest from foot to top about 10 200 meters also beats Everest, but in another way. Chimborazo is probably the highest counting from the center of the earth. The contender is Huascaran Sur. DGPS readings from both summits is the only way be sure, even if most data points at Chimborazo. | |
| Posted Aug 30, 2009 2:56 pm | ||
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